Mini Poppy the Unicorn – Free Crochet Pattern

Check out this free crochet pattern for a unicorn amigurumi! This crochet unicorn is a small amigurumi that works up so well in a variety of yarn sizes. This crochet unicorn pattern includes photo tutorials and detailed instructions.

free crochet pattern for a unicorn shown in blue

Mini Poppy the Unicorn is the smaller amigurumi unicorn version of the larger free crochet unicorn pattern. You can also find the free crochet unicorn lovey pattern to match!


I hope you enjoy this free crochet pattern available here on my blog! An ad-free, formatted PDF version of this crochet pattern is also available for purchase here:


I would classify this amigurumi unicorn as “advanced beginner”. It would be helpful to have had some experience with amigurumi before creating this project.

Pin this free crochet pattern for later.

amigurumi unicorn with eyelashes

Add this free crochet pattern for a unicorn amigurumi to your Ravelry projects.

Since writing this amigurumi unicorn pattern, I have also made Mini Poppy in Bernat Velvet, which turned out beautifully! I still used a 4.0mm hook with this yarn, and followed the pattern as written. The Bernat Velvet version turned out to be about 7.5” tall while sitting and 10.5” tall when standing, which is about 2-3” larger than the original!

Free Crochet Pattern for Mini Poppy the Unicorn

Pattern Specifics

Measurements: Approximately 5.5” tall (sitting) or 8” tall (standing)
Gauge: Not necessary for this pattern; see notes
Hook Size: 4.0mm (G) crochet hook
Other Tools: tapestry needle, stitch markers, scissors
Yarn Weight:  Medium (4), Worsted
Yarn Used: WeCrochet / Knit Picks Brava Worsted
Yardage: color A (white): 66 yds, color B (aqua): 38 yds, color C (light blue): 11 yds, color D (royal blue): 9 yds, color E (gray): 2 yds
Other Materials: poly-fil stuffing, 9mm safety eyes, small amount of black yarn

Stitch Abbreviations

st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
ch = chain
SC = single crochet
SC2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease is recommended)

Special Stitches

SC2tog (using invisible decrease method): Insert hook into front loop of the first stitch. Insert hook into front loop of second stitch. Yarn over. Draw through the first two loops on hook. Yarn over. Draw through both loops on hook.

Notes

  • Checking your gauge is not required for this pattern. Use a hook that is smaller than the size recommended for your yarn weight. This will ensure that your stuffing will not show through the stitches.
  • All pieces, with the exception of the curls, are worked in the round. Use a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of each round.
  • Invisible decreases are recommended. Please see “Special Stitches”.
  • Safety eyes and noses pose a choking risk for babies; therefore, if making this toy for a baby, I recommend using yarn, felt, or embroidered details.
  • Body, head, legs, arms, and horn require stuffing. Stuff each piece as you work to ensure the piece is completely filled. Do not add stuffing to the ears.
  • See tutorial photos.

Pattern

Using 4.0mm (G) crochet hook:

Body

Using color A (shown as white):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R6-11: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

R12: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R13-15: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R16: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Fill with stuffing.

Using color A (shown as white):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4-6: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R7: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (21 sts)

R8: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (24 sts)

R9: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (27 sts)

R10: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. Add a st marker to the last worked st. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (30 sts)

The added st marker, and the st marker at the beginning of this round helps to indicate the front of the face. The 9 sts between the two st markers sit flat and indicate the bottom of the head. If using safety eyes, insert them between R8-9, with 9 sts between. Do not attach the backs to the safety eyes yet. You can now remove your second st marker. See tutorial photos.

R11: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (36 sts)

Using black yarn, add two eyelashes from the same stitch that you inserted your safety eyes, over 1 stitch. Attach safety eye backings. See tutorial photos.

R12-15: 1 SC in each st around. (36 sts)

R16: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R17: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R18: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R19: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R20: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R21: *SC2tog. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

Cut yarn, weave yarn in and out of remaining sts. Pull tight to close. Weave in ends.

Ears (make 2)

Using color A (shown as white):

R1: Begin with 4 SC in a magic ring. (4 sts)

R2: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R5-6:1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R7: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R8: Fold the ear closed, leaving 1 unworked st at the beginning of the fold. Working through both sides, to close the ear, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 2 unworked sts at the end of the fold. (3 sts) See tutorial photos.

Insert hook through the remaining 2 unworked sts, pinch the bottom of the ear to bring each end together, and working through both sides, join the ear with 1 SC. See tutorial photos.

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Hair Curls A (make 2)

Using color B (shown as aqua):

R1: Ch 15, 2 SC in second ch from hook, 1 SC in next st, *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. Do not fasten off. (21 sts)

R2: Ch 15, 2 SC in second ch from hook, 1 SC in next st, *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. Do not fasten off. (21 sts)

R3: Ch 15, 2 SC in second ch from hook, 1 SC in next st, *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. Do not fasten off. (21 sts)

R4: Ch 15, 2 SC in second ch from hook, 1 SC in next st, *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. Do not fasten off. (21 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Hair Curls B (make 2)

Using color C (shown as light blue):

R1: Ch 15, 2 SC in second ch from hook, 1 SC in next st, *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. Do not fasten off. (21 sts)

R2: Ch 15, 2 SC in second ch from hook, 1 SC in next st, *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. Do not fasten off. (21 sts)

R3: Ch 15, 2 SC in second ch from hook, 1 SC in next st, *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. Do not fasten off. (21 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Hair Curls C (make 2)

Using color D (shown as royal blue):

R1: Ch 15, 2 SC in second ch from hook, 1 SC in next st, *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. Do not fasten off. (21 sts)

R2: Ch 15, 2 SC in second ch from hook, 1 SC in next st, *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. Do not fasten off. (21 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Horn

Using color E (shown as gray):

R1: Begin with 4 SC in a magic ring. (4 sts)

R2: 1 SC in each st around. (4 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

R4-6: 1 SC in each st around. (6 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Legs (make 2)

Using color B (shown as aqua):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R5: Working in the back loops only, 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R6: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R7: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

Using color A (shown as white):

R8-9: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R10: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 7 sts. Repeat from * around. (16 sts)

R11-15: 1 SC in each st around. (16 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R16: Fold the leg closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (7 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing.

Arms (make 2)

Using color B (shown as aqua):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: Working in the back loops only, 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R5: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R6: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

Using color A (shown as white):

R7-13: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R14: Fold the arm closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (5 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing.

Assembly & Finishing

See tutorial photos.

Attach horn at R13-14, on the top of head.

Attach an ear over R14-15, on either side of the horn, leaving about 3 sts between the horn and each ear.

Attach head to body so horn and ears are upright, in line with the body, and the nose is facing straight out; attaching body to approximately R10-16 of the head.

Attach legs between R5-6 of the body, with the inside of each leg touching in the middle.

Attach arms over R11-15 on each side of the body. At the top of the arms, leave approximately 11 sts between each arm across the front of the body. At the bottom of the arms, leave approximately 16 sts between each arm across the front of the body.

Attach one curl A to the back of the head diagonally, behind the horn and ears. Attach one curl B to the back of the head diagonally, running on top of the previous curl in the opposite direction. Attach one curl C to the back of the head diagonally, running on top of the previous curl in the opposite direction.

Attach remaining curl A to the back of the body diagonally, over R4-5. Attach remaining curl B to the back of the body diagonally, running on top of the previous curl in the opposite direction. Attach remaining curl C to the back of the body diagonally, running on top of the previous curl in the opposite direction.

We Crochet / Knit Picks Brava Worsted

Ad-Free PDF Pattern for Mini Poppy the Unicorn

Tips & Tricks

  • When sewing your pieces, use pins to hold them in place to ensure accurate placement.
  • Adding a bit of extra stuffing in the neck area prevents your amigurumi head from wobbling. Read more about this technique here.
  • Use a stitch marker to keep track of your continuous rounds.

Alterations

  • Adding more hair and tail curls to your unicorn amigurumi will create a fuller mane.
  • Change colors for each strand of the hair curls to create a rainbow unicorn.
  • Using a yarn like Bernat Velvet or Parfait Chunky creates the perfect size plush amigurumi unicorn. Check out my list of chunky yarn amigurumi patterns.

More Free Amigurumi Crochet Patterns

If you enjoyed this free crochet pattern for a unicorn, check out my other unicorn crochet patterns including Poppy the Unicorn and Elanna the Unicorn. My other amigurumi crochet patterns can be found for free here on my blog.


I hope you enjoyed this pattern! If you make it, leave me a comment below.

Want to see more from me? Be sure to subscribe to my email newsletter so that you never miss a pattern!

Follow along with me on Instagram for daily updates and a behind the scenes look at my designs.

I’d love to see what you make with this tutorial! Don’t forget to share your finished work with me: on social media by tagging me @thenicolechase, in your Ravelry projects, or post over in my Facebook group!

Thanks for stopping by! Happy crafting!

Nicole

PATTERN COPYRIGHT © 2024 NICOLE CHASE. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 
PATTERN MAY NOT BE ALTERED, COPIED, REDISTRIBUTED OR SOLD AS YOUR OWN PATTERN. 
YOU MAY SELL THE FINISHED PRODUCT ON A SMALL SCALE. PATTERN/DESIGN CREDIT GIVEN TO WWW.THENICOLECHASE.COM IS APPRECIATED. PERMISSION TO SELL DOES NOT INCLUDE MASS PRODUCTION. LARGE SCALE PRODUCTION IS PROHIBITED.

PHOTOGRAPHY COPYRIGHT © 2024 NICOLE CHASE. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 
PHOTOS MAY NOT BE ALTERED, COPIED, REDISTRIBUTED OR SOLD AS YOUR OWN.

13 Comments

  1. I’m not understanding the instructions how to finish up the ears.. I’ve done the first 3 stitches and am not getting how to finish it up so that it curls into itself

    1. So where you would insert your hook to make your next stitch, you then also fold the ear in half (to create that curled look), and work your stitch through both sides. I hope that helps! Feel free to email if you need additional help. 🙂

  2. Is there a specific reason why there is 1 unworked stitch on either side of the leg and arm when it’s closed up? I’m just wondering if I should be sewing it on differently than when there’s not. Thanks

    1. Hello! That unworked stitch is left just to make room for the fold. Otherwise, it can be a bit tough to get your hook through both sides. Hope that helps!

  3. This was so fun and easy to do. I am 12 years old and love to crochet. I made this for my baby cousin and she loves it so much.

  4. Hi! I’n making the head. Where does it say when to add the second stich marker? I don’t understand that part…

    1. Hello! You add the second st marker in R10. It’s just to help identify how the face should sit so that you can get the eye placement even. Hope that helps!

  5. I made a mini poppy and a big poppy for each of my daughters for Christmas! So much fun, pattern is easy to follow. Thank you for sharing

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *