Danny the Dragon – Free Crochet Pattern

Meet Danny the Dragon! This free dragon crochet pattern is a fun and approachable amigurumi project, perfect for those looking for a mythical make without the complicated instructions. With clean lines and simple shapes, this amigurumi dragon is a great beginner-friendly crochet pattern that works up quickly.

This pattern includes full photo tutorials to guide you through every step of the assembly process. I made my version in shades of blue acrylic yarn, but this amigurumi dragon free pattern looks fantastic in plush yarns for a larger, extra-soft plushie!

I would classify this free dragon crochet pattern as “advanced beginner”. It would be helpful to have had some experience with amigurumi before creating this project.

Pin it for later! If you aren’t ready to start your dragon today, pin this free dragon crochet pattern to your favorite Pinterest board.

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Free Crochet Pattern for Danny the Dragon

Abbreviations

st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
ch = chain
SC = single crochet
SC2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease is recommended)
HDC = half double crochet
DC = double crochet

Special Stitches

SC2tog (using invisible decrease method): Insert hook into front loop of the first stitch. Insert hook into front loop of second stitch. Yarn over. Draw through the first two loops on hook. Yarn over. Draw through both loops on hook.

Notes

• Checking your gauge is not required for this pattern. Use a hook that is smaller than the size recommended for your yarn weight. This will ensure that your stuffing will not show through the stitches.
• All pieces, with the exception of the ridge and nostrils, are worked in the round. Use a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of each round.
• Invisible decreases are recommended. Please see “Special Stitches”.
• Safety eyes and noses pose a choking risk for babies; therefore, if making this toy for a baby, I recommend using yarn, felt, or embroidered details.
• Body, head, legs, arms, tail, and spikes require stuffing. Stuff each piece as you work to ensure the piece is completely filled. Do not add stuffing to the ears or wings. 
• See tutorial photos.

Pattern

Using 4.0mm (G) hook:

Body

Using color A (shown as blue):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R6-11: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

R12: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R13-15: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R16: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Fill with stuffing.

Head

Using color A (shown as blue):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4-6: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R7: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times (3 repeats in total). 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (21 sts)

R8: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times (3 repeats in total). 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (24 sts)

R9: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times (3 repeats in total). 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (27 sts)

R10: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times (3 repeats in total). 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (30 sts)

R11: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times (3 repeats in total). Add a st marker to the last worked st. **2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from ** an additional 2 times (3 repeats in total). (36 sts)

The added st marker, and the st marker at the beginning of this round helps to indicate the front sides of the face. The first sequence of sts between the first and second st markers indicates the top of the head. The second sequence of sts between the second and first st markers indicates the bottom of the head. If using safety eyes, insert eyes between R8 and R9, with 7 sts between. You can now remove your second st marker. See tutorial photos.

R12-15: 1 SC in each st around. (36 sts)

R16: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R17: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R18: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R19: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R20: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

Fill head with stuffing.

R21: *SC2tog. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

Cut yarn, weave yarn in and out of remaining sts. Pull tight to close. Tie off and weave in ends.

Tail

Using color A (shown as blue):

R1: Begin with 4 SC in a magic ring. (4 sts)

R2: 1 SC in each st around. (4 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

R4-5: 1 SC in each st around. (6 sts)

R6: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R7-9: 1 SC in each st around. (9 sts)

R10: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R11-12: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R13: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (15 sts)

R14: 1 SC in each st around. (15 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Fill with stuffing.

Legs (make 2)

Using color B (shown as light blue):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

Using color A (shown as blue):

R5-6: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R7: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R8-9: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R10: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 7 sts. Repeat from * around. (16 sts)

R11-15: 1 SC in each st around. (16 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R16: Fold the leg closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (7 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Arms (make 2)

Using color B (shown as light blue):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

Using color A (shown as blue):

R4-5: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R6: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R7-13: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R14: Fold the arm closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (5 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Wings (make 2)

Using color C (shown as teal):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 1 SC in each st around. (6 sts)

R3: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (15 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R6: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (21 sts)

R7: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 6 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R8: Fold the wing closed. Ch 1, working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across. See tutorial photos. (12 sts)

R9: Ch 1, turn, *1 SC and 1 DC in next st, 1 DC and 1 SC in next st, sl st into next st. Repeat from * across. (4 shells)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Small Spikes (make 2)

Using color C (shown as teal):

R1: Begin with 4 SC in a magic ring. (4 sts)

R2: 1 SC in each st around. (4 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

R4: 1 SC in each st around. (6 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Fill with stuffing.

Large Spikes (make 2)

Using color C (shown as teal):

R1: Begin with 4 SC in a magic ring. (4 sts)

R2: 1 SC in each st around. (4 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

R4: 1 SC in each st around. (6 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R6: 1 SC in each st around. (9 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Fill with stuffing.

Nostrils (make 2)

Using color A (shown as blue):

R1: Ch 4.

Cut yarn, leaving strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Ears (make 2)

Using color A (shown as blue):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3-4: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R5: Fold the ear closed. Leaving the last st of the prior round unworked and working through both sides, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts, leaving 3 unworked sts. Working through both sides, insert hook into the next st and st across (leaving 1 unworked st at the end of the fold), pinch the bottom of the ear to bring each end together, and further working through the first st of this round, join the ear with 1 SC. See tutorial photos.

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Ridges

Note: The bumps from the HDC sts naturally push away from you towards the “wrong side”; this is the desired outcome to create the bumpy ridges.

Using color B (shown as light blue):

R1: Ch 38, working in second ch from hook, 1 HDC, *1 sl st into next st, 1 HDC into next st. Repeat from * across. (37 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Assembly & Finishing

See tutorial photos.

Attach head to body so that the nose is facing straight out; attaching body to approximately R10-16 of the bottom of the head.

Attach legs over R4-5 of body, with each inside end of the legs touching in the middle. 

Attach tail over R4-8, on the back of the body.

Attach the ridge by sewing between each HDC bump. Starting at the tip of the tail, place the ridge from the tail, up the back, and up to the top of the head, ending around R12. See tutorial photos.

Attach ears over R15-16 on each side of the top of the head, with about 3 sts between the ridge and the ear.

Attach large spikes over R11-13 on each side of the top of the head, with about 1 st between the ridge and the spike.

Attach small spikes over R12-13 on each side of the top of the head, about 1 st below each large spike.

Attach nostrils in an upside-down U shape on the top front of the head, over R2-3.

Attach arms over R11-15 on each side of the body, in line with the back of each leg. At the top of the arms, leave approximately 8 sts between each arm across the front of the body. At the bottom of the arms, leave approximately 15 sts between each arm across the front of the body.

With the right side of R9 of the wings facing forward, attach the edge of each wing on the back of the body between R10-12, leaving most of the wing off the side of the body. The edge of the wings should touch the ridge.

Note (Left Wing): The left wing will be attached with the yarn tail remaining on the right side of the piece.

Note (Right Wing): Weave the yarn tail from the right side of the right wing inside the piece. The right wing will be attached on the left side of the piece with a separate strand of yarn, or the remaining tail from the left wing.

Using color D (white), embroider 3 nails on each leg, over R4-6, leaving about 2 sts between each nail. Embroider 3 nails on each arm, over R3-4, leaving about 2 sts between each nail.

I hope that you enjoyed making Danny just as much as I enjoyed designing him! I’d love to see your finished projects! Be sure to tag me @thenicolechase on social media!

Ad-Free PDF Pattern for Danny the Dragon

Tips for Success

Making amigurumi like Danny the Dragon is much easier with a few simple techniques:

• Use Stitch Markers: Since this amigurumi dragon free pattern is worked in continuous rounds, using a stitch marker is essential to keep track of your place.
• Pins for Assembly: I highly recommend using pins to secure your pieces in place before sewing. This allows you to check for symmetry and positioning before making any permanent stitches.
• Check Your Tension: For the best results, keep your tension consistent and tight so that your stuffing doesn’t show through your stitches.

For more in-depth advice on getting the perfect finish on your amigurumi, check out my full list of amigurumi tips and tricks.

Dragon Pattern Alterations & Variations

One of my favorite parts of amigurumi is making your project your own! Here are a few ways that you can customize your crochet dragon:

• Try Different Yarn Weights: While I designed Danny in worsted weight acrylic yarn, this free dragon crochet pattern works beautifully in plush yarns like Parfait Chunky. When I use Parfait Chunky, I use a 5.0mm crochet hook, but be sure to find the amigurumi crochet hook that suit you best.
• Fruit-Themed Dragons: You can easily turn Danny into a “Dragon Fruit” by using a bright yarn for the body, white for the snout, and green for the wings and horns. Adding small black “seed” embroidery is a great way to add unique details.
• Customize the Expression: Change the placement of the safety eyes or adding small embroidered eyelashes or eyebrows can completely change Danny’s personality.

More Free Amigurumi Crochet Patterns

If you enjoyed making Danny with this free dragon crochet pattern, you might also like these other free patterns that I’ve designed:

• Mini Poppy the Unicorn: At the same size and scale as Danny, Mini Poppy is the perfect way to create a mythical set!
• Free Dinosaur Crochet Patterns: If you love prehistoric creatures too, check out my full library of dinosaur amigurumi designs.
• Free Amigurumi Animal Crochet Patterns: Browse my entire library of crochet animal patterns to find your next quick and easy project.