Tanner the Triceratops – Free Dinosaur Crochet Pattern

Dinosaurs are so popular these days! My son just loves them, and his dino obsession is what gave me the inspiration for my latest design. Introducing my new free triceratops crochet pattern, Tanner the Triceratops!

Tanner is a beginner friendly dinosaur amigurumi. He is about 10″ tall when sitting down, and about 13″ tall when standing. Most pieces are worked in the round and then sewn together at the end, with a bit of embroidery for the nails. 

Tanner the Triceratops, the popular free triceratops crochet pattern


I hope you enjoy this free crochet pattern available here on my blog! An ad-free, formatted PDF version of this crochet pattern is also available for purchase here:


If you like this free pattern, you may be interested in my other amigurumi dinosaur patterns. You can find all of my dinosaur crochet patterns here.

Pin this pattern for later.

Add Tanner the Triceratops to your project queue and favorite this pattern on Ravelry here.

I would classify this crochet pattern as “advanced beginner”. It would be helpful to have had some experience with amigurumi before creating this project.

I used WeCrochet’s Brava Worsted yarn to make Tanner the Triceratops. You’ll also need a 4.0mm (G) crochet hook, tapestry needle/yarn needle, scissors, safety eyes (if desired), and poly-fil stuffing for this free triceratops crochet pattern. You can find all of these over on my Amazon page here

Free Crochet Pattern for Tanner the Triceratops

Pattern Specifics

Measurements: Approximately 8.5” tall (sitting) or 11.5” tall (standing)
Gauge: Not necessary for this pattern; see notes
Hook Size:  4.0mm (G) crochet hook
Other Tools: tapestry needle, stitch markers, scissors
Yarn Weight:  Medium (4), Worsted
Yarn Used:  WeCrochet/Knit Picks Brava Worsted
Yardage: color A (teal): 218 yds, color B (gray): 59 yds, color C (white): 4 yds
Other Materials:  poly-fil stuffing, 12mm safety eyes

Stitch Abbreviations

st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
SC = single crochet
SC2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease is recommended)
FSC = foundation single crochet

Special Stitches

SC2tog (using invisible decrease method): Insert hook into front loop of the first stitch. Insert hook into front loop of second stitch. Yarn over. Draw through the first two loops on hook. Yarn over. Draw through both loops on hook.

Notes

  • Checking your gauge is not required for this pattern. Use a hook that is smaller than the size recommended for your yarn weight. This will ensure that your stuffing will not show through the stitches.
  • All pieces, with the exception of the frill, are worked in the round. Use a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of each round.
  • Invisible decreases are recommended. Please see “Special Stitches”.
  • Safety eyes and noses pose a choking risk for babies; therefore, if making this toy for a baby, I recommend using yarn, felt, or embroidered details.
  • Body, head, legs, arms, horns, and tail require stuffing. Stuff as you work it to ensure each piece is completely filled. Do not add stuffing to the frill.
  • See tutorial photos.

Pattern

Using 4.0mm (G) crochet hook:

Body

Using color A (shown as teal):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R6: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (36 sts)

R7: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (42 sts)

R8: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 6 sts. Repeat from * around. (48 sts)

R9-16: 1 SC in each st around. (48 sts)

R17: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 6 sts. Repeat from * around. (42 sts)

R18: 1 SC in each st around. (42 sts)

R19: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (36 sts)

R20: 1 SC in each st around. (36 sts)

R21: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R22: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

R23: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R24: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts).

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Fill with stuffing.

Using color A (shown as teal):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R6-10: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

R11: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (36 sts)

R12: 1 SC in each st around. (36 sts)

R13: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (42 sts)

R14: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 6 sts. Repeat from * around. (48 sts)

R15: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * an additional 5 times. 1 SC in each of the next 24 sts around. (54 sts)

R16: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * an additional 5 times. 1 SC in each of the next 24 sts around. (60 sts)

R17: 1 SC in each of the next 32 sts around. Add a st marker to the last worked st. 1 SC in each of the next 28 sts around. (60 sts)

The added st marker, and the st marker at the beginning of this round helps to indicate the front of the face. The 28 sts between the two st markers sit flat and indicate the bottom of the head. If using safety eyes, insert eyes between R14 and R15, with 14 sts between. Embroider around eyes for additional detail, if desired. You can now remove your second st marker. See tutorial photos.

R18-19: 1 SC in each st around. (60 sts)

R20: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 8 sts. Repeat from * around. (54 sts)

R21: * SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 7 sts. Repeat from * around. (48 sts)

R22: 1 SC in each st around. (48 sts)

R23: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 6 sts. Repeat from * around. (42 sts)

R24: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (36 sts)

R25: 1 SC in each st around. (36 sts)

R26: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R27: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R28: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R29: *SC2tog, 1 SC in the next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R30: *SC2tog. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

Cut yarn, weave yarn in and out of remaining sts. Pull tight to close. Weave in ends.

Small Horn

Using color A (shown as teal):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 1 SC in each st around. (6 sts)

R3: 2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat around. (9 sts)

R4: 1 SC in each st around. (9 sts)

R5: 2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat around. (12 sts)

R6: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

Leave long tail for sewing. Fasten off.

Fill with stuffing.

Large Horns (make 2)

Using color A (shown as teal):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 1 SC in each st around. (6 sts)

R3: 2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat around. (9 sts)

R4: 1 SC in each st around. (9 sts)

R5: 2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat around. (12 sts)

R6-9: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

Leave long tail for sewing. Fasten off.

Fill with stuffing.

Frill Front

NOTE: When working the frill, be sure to complete the entire repeat. The repeat both starts and ends with 2SC. Therefore, when working the full sequence of stitches, followed by the same sequence of stitches, the row will look something like this like this: (2SC, 1SC, 1SC, 1SC, 2SC), (2SC, 1SC, 1SC, 1SC, 2SC), (2SC, 1 SC, 1 SC, 1SC, 2 SC), and so on.

*** NOTE: The foundation single crochet stitch is preferred; however, you could alternatively replace R1 with: Ch 31, SC in second ch from hook and each ch to end. (30 sts), and then proceed as written with R2.

Using color B (shown as gray):

R1: 30 FSC***. (30 sts)

R2: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (42 sts)

R3: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (54 sts)

R4: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 7 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (66 sts)

R5: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (78 sts)

R6: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 11 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (90 sts)

Fasten off.

Frill Back

Using color A (shown as teal):

R1: 30 FSC. (30 sts)

R2: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (42 sts)

R3: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (54 sts)

R4: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 7 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (66 sts)

R5: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (78 sts)

R6: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 11 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (90 sts)

R7: Ch 1, turn. Hold the Frill Front against the Frill Back. Working through each layer, SC around the entire Frill to beginning, working 1 SC in each st, and 3 SC when rounding each of the four corners. See tutorial photos.

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Legs (make 2)

Using color B (shown as gray):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R6: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (36 sts)

Using color A (shown as teal):

R7-8: 1 SC in each st around. (36 sts)

R9: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R10: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

R11: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R12: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (20 sts)

R13-20: 1 SC in each st around. (20 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R21: Fold the leg closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (9 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing.

Arms (make 2)

Using color B (shown as gray):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

Using color A (shown as teal):

R6-7: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

R8: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R9: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R10: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R11-18: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R19: Fold the arm closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (8 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing.

Tail

Using color A (shown as teal):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 1 SC in each st around. (6 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R4: 1 SC in each st around. (9 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R6-7: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R8: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (15 sts)

R9: 1 SC in each st around. (15 sts)

R10: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R11-12: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R13: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R14-15: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Fill with stuffing.

Assembly & Finishing

See tutorial photos.

Attach small horn over R6-9, on the top middle of snout. Attach large horns between R17-21 on the top of the head.

Attach frill around the head, directly behind the large horns, at approximately R22.

Attach head to body so that the frill is upright, in line with the body, and the nose is facing straight out; attaching body to approximately R14-19 of the bottom of the head.

Attach legs over R7-8 of body, with 4 sts showing between.

Embroider 3 nails on each leg, over R6-8, leaving about 2 sts between each nail.

Attach arms over R16-23 on each side of the body. At the top of the arms, leave approximately 12 sts between each arm across the front of the body. At the bottom of the arms, leave approximately 18 sts between each arm across the front of the body.

Embroider 3 nails on each arm, over R5-6, leaving about 2 sts between each nail.

Attach tail over R6-13, on the back of the body.

Ad-Free PDF Pattern for Tanner the Triceratops

We Crochet / Knit Picks Brava Worsted

Tips & Tricks

  • While sewing the pieces of this free triceratops crochet pattern, hold your pieces in place with pins so that they don’t move around.
  • Prevent your triceratops amigurumi from having a floppy head with extra stuffing. Check out this post on amigurumi head wobble.
  • These amigurumi tips and tricks are a great reference!

Alterations

  • Make a strawberry triceratops crochet pattern using this free pattern modification for Strawberry Tanner the Triceratops!
  • To create a larger amigurumi dinosaur with this free triceratops crochet pattern, use a plush yarn and suitable hook size, then follow the pattern as written.
  • For a smaller triceratops amigurumi, check out the free crochet pattern for Mini Tanner the Triceratops.

More Free Dinosaur Crochet Patterns

I hope you enjoyed this free triceratops crochet pattern! If you love dinosaurs and want to see more free dinosaur crochet patterns, check out my other dinosaur amigurumi patterns!


I hope you enjoyed this pattern! If you make it, leave me a comment below.

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I’d love to see what you make with this tutorial! Don’t forget to share your finished work with me: on social media by tagging me @thenicolechase, in your Ravelry projects, or post over in my Facebook group!

Thanks for stopping by! Happy crafting!

Nicole

PATTERN COPYRIGHT © 2024 NICOLE CHASE. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 
PATTERN MAY NOT BE ALTERED, COPIED, REDISTRIBUTED OR SOLD AS YOUR OWN PATTERN. 
YOU MAY SELL THE FINISHED PRODUCT ON A SMALL SCALE. PATTERN/DESIGN CREDIT GIVEN TO WWW.THENICOLECHASE.COM IS APPRECIATED. PERMISSION TO SELL DOES NOT INCLUDE MASS PRODUCTION. LARGE SCALE PRODUCTION IS PROHIBITED.

PHOTOGRAPHY COPYRIGHT © 2024 NICOLE CHASE. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 
PHOTOS MAY NOT BE ALTERED, COPIED, REDISTRIBUTED OR SOLD AS YOUR OWN.

208 Comments

  1. If you can help me math Round 13 to make it 42 stitches. I am doing inc(@sc in one stitch) with 5 single stitches after. I am a stitch short to complete to make it to 42 stitches in the round.

    1. Hello! It sounds like your count may be off for the round previously. Double check that the previous round has 36 stitches. As long as it does, R13 will work out to the correct stitch count. Hope that helps!

  2. Hello Nicole!
    Have you tried the dinosaurs with a no sew option for the arms and legs! I know you sc them closed so I was wondering if this would work

    1. Hello! I haven’t personally tried that, but you definitely could. You would just need to be careful that your placement lines up properly when attaching the head. Hope that helps!

  3. I know the legs are added on to the assembly version and then sew them on. Would it work to crochet them in for a no sew option between rows 7 and 8 or would it come out weird?

    1. Hi! It would work, you would just have to be extra careful when attaching the head, that the legs are facing in just the right direction. That’s why I prefer to sew them on after to make sure it aligns as it should to the head. Hope that helps!

  4. You’re math is exact! The only thing I am having issues with is placing the frill. I can’t find good placement for the bottom points. I have OCD so I think I might be over thinking it.

    1. I’d recommend using pins to adjust the placement. What I do when figuring out exactly where to put it is to fold it in half to find the middle, and then I align that middle to the top/back of the head, pin that in place, and then it is a bit easier to pin down where the sides will sit. I hope that helps!

  5. Hi Nicole! I’m making the strawberry version of the big triceratops for my sister for Christmas, and I’ve just gotten to the ruffle, but it’s way too small for the rest of the head! I haven’t stuffed the head yet because I’m flying home in a week, and I wanted to get the components done and ready to assemble before I left, and I don’t know what to do about the ruffle. I thought it was my yarn so I doubled it to make it thicker, but the ruffle is still too small for the rest of the head. Am i doing something wrong or is this a “trust the process” thing?

    1. Hello! It’s hard to say without seeing a photo. You can send me a picture via email or on Instagram and I’d be happy to take a look! 🙂

    1. Hello,

      You are to repeat for an ADDITIONAL 5 times, which makes a total of 6 times. The math is correct. Hope that helps!

  6. My daughter loves dinosaurs, and when I saw this, I knew I had to make one. Question. I will be using 8-ply milk cotton; do I use 4.00mm as well or adjust it to a smaller one? Your reply will be very much appreciated! I am excited about this one! haha

  7. Hi Nicole!
    Love your pattern so far. I’ve gotten to the frill and have been stumped. I’ve tried it both ways multiple times with the FSC and SC chain… and each time my stitch count is off, and I don’t end with enough chains at the end of each row/don’t end on 2 sc in one stitch. I’m really confused on what could be happening!

    1. Hello! It sounds like you aren’t doing the entire repeat, which both starts and ends with 2 SC. So it is 2, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 1, 1, 1, 2, and so on. So there will be 2 and 2 right next to each other. I hope that helps!

    2. This is happening to me too. The math is off. 30 stitches in round 1 and then 7 each round for round 2 don’t equate to 42. I’ve ripped this apart so many times I’m about to throw in the towel.

      1. Hello,

        I can assure you that the math is correct. You are likely not doing the full repeat. Notice that it starts with 2 and ends with 2, so when you are doing another repeat, you have 2 and 2 next to each other. This is often overlooked. It will look like this 2, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 1, 1, 1, 2, which gives you a total of 42 sts. You are creating 7 sts for each repeat, repeating a total of 6 times. 7×6=42. Hope that helps! 🙂

  8. Hi Nicole, I am new to crocheting and I picked this Triceratops as my first project. I am almost done, one leg and the arms left to go plus trying to understand the assembly which I am nervous about.
    On the legs when it says sc the legs closed leaving one stitch open on both sides, am I missing something as to what I am doing with these two open stitches?
    Also you are using a yarn needle for sewing pieces together? I am praying it looks halfway decent when I am done. I have enjoyed making this.

    1. Hello! The open stitch is just to allow room for the fold so that you can work through both sides. Otherwise it’s a bit difficult to get your hook through the edge stitches. All in all, the actual count and open stitches don’t have any impact on how things sew together, so if you would prefer to not skip those stitches on the ends for the fold, it’s not an issue.
      Yes, I use a yarn needle for assembling. There are lots of tutorial photos to go along with the assembly instructions which should be helpful. 🙂
      So glad you’ve enjoyed it!

  9. Love the pattern, this is only my second stuffy (as my son calls them) that I’ve made and your tutorial was very easy to follow! I only have the arms left to attach then my son can go ham loving on him! ❤️

  10. On the legs, for row 12 it says to do 4 sc bit i think its meant to say 2sc since its supposed to still be decreasing correct?

    1. No; from R11 to R12, you are only decreasing by 4 sts (not 6). Your final stitch count for the R12 is 20 sts, so you will be doing the (SC2tog, 1 SC x 4) a total of 4 times around, thus decreasing by 4 sts. If you did (SC2tog, 1 SC x2), you would have to repeat for a total of 6 times around, which would decrease the round by 6 sts, and give you a final stitch count of 18.
      Hope that helps!

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