Poppy the Unicorn – Free Crochet Pattern

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I’m so happy to be publishing this free unicorn crochet pattern! Meet Poppy the Unicorn, the full size amigurumi unicorn pattern with fun and colorful curls! This detailed pattern is great for all skill levels, and includes detailed instructions and photo tutorials.

free unicorn crochet pattern shown in purple, blue, and pink

Poppy the Unicorn pairs perfectly with my other free unicorn crochet patterns: Mini Poppy the Unicorn, Hug Me Unicorn Lovey, and Elanna the Unicorn. These unicorn amigurumi make great gifts for any unicorn lover!


I hope you enjoy this free crochet pattern available here on my blog! An ad-free, formatted PDF version of this crochet pattern is also available for purchase here:


I would classify this free unicorn crochet pattern as “advanced beginner”. It would be helpful to have had some experience with amigurumi before creating this project.

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Free Crochet Pattern for Poppy the Unicorn

Pattern Specifics

Measurements: Approximately 8.5” tall (sitting) or 11” tall (standing)
Gauge: Not necessary for this pattern; see notes
Hook Size:  4.0mm (G) crochet hook
Other Tools: tapestry needle, stitch markers, scissors
Yarn Weight:  Medium (4), Worsted
Yarn Used:  WeCrochet / Knit Picks Brava Worsted
Yardage: color A (white): 125 yds, color B (purple): 70 yds, color C (blue): 28 yds, color D (pink): 16 yds, color E (gray): 4 yds
Other Materials: poly-fil stuffing, 12mm safety eyes, small amount of black yarn

Abbreviations

st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
ch = chain
SC = single crochet
SC2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease is recommended)
HDC = half double crochet

Special Stitches

SC2tog (using invisible decrease method): Insert hook into front loop of the first stitch. Insert hook into front loop of second stitch. Yarn over. Draw through the first two loops on hook. Yarn over. Draw through both loops on hook.

Notes

  • Checking your gauge is not required for this pattern. Use a hook that is smaller than the size recommended for your yarn weight. This will ensure that your stuffing will not show through the stitches.
  • All pieces, with the exception of the curls, are worked in the round. Use a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of each round.
  • Invisible decreases are recommended. Please see “Special Stitches”.
  • Safety eyes and noses pose a choking risk for babies; therefore, if making this toy for a baby, I recommend using yarn, felt, or embroidered details.
  • Body, head, legs, arms, and horn require stuffing. Stuff each piece as you work to ensure the piece is completely filled. Do not add stuffing to the ears.
  • See tutorial photos.

Pattern

Using 4.0mm (G) crochet hook:

Body

Using color A (shown as white):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R6: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (36 sts)

R7: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (42 sts)

R8: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 6 sts. Repeat from * around. (48 sts)

R9-16: 1 SC in each st around. (48 sts)

R17: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 6 sts. Repeat from * around. (42 sts)

R18: 1 SC in each st around. (42 sts)

R19: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (36 sts)

R20: 1 SC in each st around. (36 sts)

R21: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R22: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

R23: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R24: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts).

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Fill with stuffing.

Using color A (shown as white):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R6-10: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

R11: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (36 sts)

R12: 1 SC in each st around. (36 sts)

R13: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (42 sts)

R14: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 6 sts. Repeat from * around. (48 sts)

R15: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * an additional 5 times. 1 SC in each of the next 24 sts around. (54 sts)

R16: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * an additional 5 times. 1 SC in each of the next 24 sts around. (60 sts)

R17: 1 SC in each of the next 32 sts around. Add a st marker to the last worked st. 1 SC in each of the next 28 sts around. (60 sts)

The added st marker, and the st marker at the beginning of this round helps to indicate the front of the face. The 28 sts between the two st markers sit flat and indicate the bottom of the head. If using safety eyes, insert eyes between R14 and R15, with 14 sts between. Do not attach the backs to the safety eyes yet. You can now remove your second st marker. See tutorial photos.

R18-19: 1 SC in each st around. (60 sts)

Using black yarn, add two eyelashes from the same stitch that you inserted your safety eyes, over 3 stitches. Attach safety eye backings. See tutorial photos.

R20: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 8 sts. Repeat from * around. (54 sts)

R21: * SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 7 sts. Repeat from * around. (48 sts)

R22: 1 SC in each st around. (48 sts)

R23: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 6 sts. Repeat from * around. (42 sts)

R24: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (36 sts)

R25: 1 SC in each st around. (36 sts)

R26: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R27: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R28: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R29: *SC2tog, 1 SC in the next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R30: *SC2tog. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

Cut yarn, weave yarn in and out of remaining sts. Pull tight to close. Weave in ends.

Ears (make 2)

Using color A (shown as white)

R1: Begin with 4 SC in a magic ring. (4 sts)

R2: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (15 sts)

R6: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R7-9: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R10: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (15 sts)

R11: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R12: Fold the ear closed, leaving 1 unworked st at the beginning of the fold. Working through both sides, to close the ear, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 3 unworked sts at the end of the fold. (4 sts) See tutorial photos.

Insert hook through the next pair of stitches that would finish closing the ear (leaving 1 unworked st at the end of the fold). Pinch the bottom of the ear to bring each end of the ear together, and working through both ends, join the ear with 1 SC. See tutorial photos.

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Hair Curls A (make 2)

Using color B (shown as purple):

R1: Ch 29, 2 HDC in second ch from hook, 1 HDC in next st, *2 HDC in next st, 1 HDC in next st. Repeat from * across. Do not fasten off. (42 sts)

R2: Ch 29, 2 HDC in second ch from hook, 1 HDC in next st, *2 HDC in next st, 1 HDC in next st. Repeat from * across. Do not fasten off. (42 sts)

R3: Ch 29, 2 HDC in second ch from hook, 1 HDC in next st, *2 HDC in next st, 1 HDC in next st. Repeat from * across. Do not fasten off. (42 sts)

R4: Ch 29, 2 HDC in second ch from hook, 1 HDC in next st, *2 HDC in next st, 1 HDC in next st. Repeat from * across. Do not fasten off. (42 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Hair Curls B (make 2)

Using color C (shown as blue):

R1: Ch 29, 2 HDC in second ch from hook, 1 HDC in next st, *2 HDC in next st, 1 HDC in next st. Repeat from * across. Do not fasten off. (42 sts)

R2: Ch 29, 2 HDC in second ch from hook, 1 HDC in next st, *2 HDC in next st, 1 HDC in next st. Repeat from * across. Do not fasten off. (42 sts)

R3: Ch 29, 2 HDC in second ch from hook, 1 HDC in next st, *2 HDC in next st, 1 HDC in next st. Repeat from * across. Do not fasten off. (42 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Hair Curls C (make 2)

Using color D (shown as pink):

R1: Ch 29, 2 HDC in second ch from hook, 1 HDC in next st, *2 HDC in next st, 1 HDC in next st. Repeat from * across. Do not fasten off. (42 sts)

R2: Ch 29, 2 HDC in second ch from hook, 1 HDC in next st, *2 HDC in next st, 1 HDC in next st. Repeat from * across. Do not fasten off. (42 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Horn

Using color E (shown as gray):

R1: Begin with 4 SC in a magic ring. (4 sts)

R2: 1 SC in each st around. (4 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

R4: 1 SC in each st around. (6 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R6-9: 1 SC in each st around. (9 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Legs (make 2)

Using color B (shown as purple):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R6: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (36 sts)

R7: Working in the back loops only, 1 SC in each st around. (36 sts)

R8: 1 SC in each st around. (36 sts)

R9: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R10: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

Using color A (shown as white):

R11: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R12: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (20 sts)

R13-20: 1 SC in each st around. (20 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R21: Fold the leg closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (9 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing.

Arms (make 2)

Using color B (shown as purple):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R6: Working in the back loops only, 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

R7: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

R8: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R9: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

Using color A (shown as white):

R10: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R11-18: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R19: Fold the arm closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (8 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing.

Assembly & Finishing

See tutorial photos.

Attach horn at R19-21, on the top of head.

Attach an ear over R20-21, on each side of the horn, leaving about 3-4 stitches between the horn and each ear.

Attach head to body so horn and ears are upright, in line with the body, and the nose is facing straight out; attaching body to approximately R14-19 of the bottom of the head.

Attach legs between R7-8 of body, with 4 sts showing between.

Attach arms over R16-23 on each side of the body. At the top of the arms, leave approximately 12 sts between each arm across the front of the body. At the bottom of the arms, leave approximately 18 sts between each arm across the front of the body.

Attach one curl A to the back of the head diagonally, behind the horn and ears. Attach one curl B to the back of the head diagonally, running on top of the previous curl in the opposite direction. Attach one curl C to the back of the head diagonally, running on top of the previous curl in the opposite direction.

Attach remaining curl A to the back of the body diagonally, over R5-7. Attach remaining curl B to the back of the body diagonally, running on top of the previous curl in the opposite direction. Attach remaining curl C to the back of the body diagonally, running on top of the previous curl in the opposite direction.

We Crochet / Knit Picks Brava Worsted

Ad-Free PDF Pattern for Poppy the Unicorn

Tips & Tricks

  • Using pins to hold your pieces in place ensures more accurate placement while sewing!
  • Add a bit of extra stuffing to the neck area so that your amigurumi head doesn’t wobble. Read more about preventing amigurumi head wobble.
  • When working in continuous rounds, use a stitch marker so that you don’t lose count!
  • Check out this post on amigurumi tips and tricks for more ideas.

Alterations

  • Add more hair and tail curls to your free unicorn crochet pattern for a fuller mane.
  • Make a rainbow unicorn by changing colors in each strand of your curls.
  • Make the horn with yarn that includes a glitter strand to add some magic to your unicorn!
free unicorn crochet pattern for Poppy the Unicorn amigurumi

More Free Amigurumi Crochet Patterns

If you enjoyed this free unicorn crochet pattern, I know you’ll want to check out my other amigurumi designs, such as my free dinosaur crochet patterns and free farm animal crochet patterns.


I hope you enjoyed this pattern! If you make it, leave me a comment below.

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I’d love to see what you make with this tutorial! Don’t forget to share your finished work with me: on social media by tagging me @thenicolechase, in your Ravelry projects, or post over in my Facebook group!

Thanks for stopping by! Happy crafting!

Nicole

PATTERN COPYRIGHT © 2024 NICOLE CHASE. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 
PATTERN MAY NOT BE ALTERED, COPIED, REDISTRIBUTED OR SOLD AS YOUR OWN PATTERN. 
YOU MAY SELL THE FINISHED PRODUCT ON A SMALL SCALE. PATTERN/DESIGN CREDIT GIVEN TO WWW.THENICOLECHASE.COM IS APPRECIATED. PERMISSION TO SELL DOES NOT INCLUDE MASS PRODUCTION. LARGE SCALE PRODUCTION IS PROHIBITED.

PHOTOGRAPHY COPYRIGHT © 2024 NICOLE CHASE. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 
PHOTOS MAY NOT BE ALTERED, COPIED, REDISTRIBUTED OR SOLD AS YOUR OWN.

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36 Comments

  1. Why would the beginning part of the leg create a point within the first few rounds. I’ve made quite a few animals and have never had this happen before. Any suggestions? I have also started this over a few times and it still creates a point.

    1. Hello! Are you using a plush yarn? Sometimes that can happen when using a chunky yarn, but if you just give it a little stretch in the center, it should flatten out. If you are using just typical worsted weight yarn, the only thing that I could imagine is that you aren’t starting off with the full 6 sts in the magic ring. Hope that helps!

  2. Hello! This was my first amigurumi, it was a learning experience but well worth. I used different colors at the request of my tiny helper and it worked nicely. Thank you so much for this pattern, I look forward to new creations from more of your patterns.

  3. Absolutely loving your patterns. Just made Poppy and I’m having to fight my 4 yr old to keep her. Going to try in plush yarn next.

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