Alan the Alligator – Free Crochet Pattern

Meet Alan the Alligator! If you’ve been searching for a free alligator crochet pattern that is both adorable and easy to crochet, you’re in the right place. I wanted to design an alligator amigurumi plush that felt approachable. Whether you’re looking for an alligator pattern or even a free crocodile crochet pattern, Alan’s shape is perfectly versatile for both. In this post I’ll walk you through the steps to create your own crochet alligator!

I would classify this free alligator crochet pattern as “advanced beginner”. It would be helpful to have had some experience with amigurumi before creating this project.

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Free Crochet Pattern for Alan the Alligator

Abbreviations

st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
ch = chain
SC = single crochet
SC2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease is recommended)
HDC = half double crochet

Special Stitches

SC2tog (using invisible decrease method): Insert hook into front loop of the first stitch. Insert hook into front loop of second stitch. Yarn over. Draw through the first two loops on hook. Yarn over. Draw through both loops on hook.

Notes

• Checking your gauge is not required for this pattern. Use a hook that is smaller than the size recommended for your yarn weight. This will ensure that your stuffing will not show through the stitches.
• All pieces, with the exception of the nostrils and ridges, are worked in the round. Use a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of each round.
• Invisible decreases are recommended. Please see “Special Stitches”.
• Safety eyes and noses pose a choking risk for babies; therefore, if making this toy for a baby, I recommend using yarn, felt, or embroidered details.
• Head, body, tail, and legs require stuffing. Stuff each piece as you work to ensure the piece is completely filled.
• See tutorial photos.

Pattern

Using 4.0mm (G) hook:

Head

Using color A (shown as green):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4-7: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R8: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times (3 repeats in total). 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (21 sts)

R9: 1 SC in each st around. (21 sts)

R10: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times (3 repeats in total). 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (24 sts)

R11: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times (3 repeats in total). 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (27 sts)

R12: 1 SC in each st around. (27 sts)

R13: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times (3 repeats in total). 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (30 sts)

R14: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times (3 repeats in total). Add a st marker to the last worked st. **2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from ** an additional 2 times. (36 sts)

The added st marker, and the st marker at the beginning of this round helps to indicate the front sides of the face. The first sequence of sts between the first and second st markers indicates the top of the head. The second sequence of sts between the second and first st markers indicates the bottom of the head. If using safety eyes, insert eyes between R12 and R13, with 6 sts between. You can now remove your second st marker. See tutorial photos.

R15-16: 1 SC in each st around. (36 sts)

R17: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R18: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

R19: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R20: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

Fill head with stuffing.

Do not fasten off. Move on to body.

Body

R21: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (21 sts)

R22: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 6 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R23: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 7 sts. Repeat from * around. (27 sts)

R24: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 8 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R25-28: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

R29: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (36 sts)

R30: 1 SC in each st around. (36 sts)

R31: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 10 sts. Repeat from * around. (33 sts)

R32: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R33: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

R34: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 8 sts. Repeat from * around. (27 sts)

R35: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 7 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R36: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R37: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 6 sts. Repeat from * around. (21 sts)

R38: 1 SC in each st around. (21 sts)

Fill body with stuffing.

Do not fasten off. Move on to tail.

Tail

R39: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R40: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R41: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (15 sts)

R42-43: 1 SC in each st around. (15 sts)

R44: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

Lightly fill tail with stuffing to this point.

R45: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R46: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R47-48: 1 SC in each st around. (9 sts)

Lightly fill tail with stuffing.

R49: *SC2tog, 1 SC in the next st. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

Cut yarn, weave yarn in and out of remaining sts. Pull tight to close. Tie off and weave in ends.

Legs (make 4)

Using color A (shown as green):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (15 sts)

R4: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R5: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (10 sts)

R6: 1 SC in each st around. (10 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R7: Fold the leg closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (4 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Ridges (make 2)

Note: The bumps from the HDC sts naturally push away from you towards the “wrong side”; this is the desired outcome to create the bumpy ridges.

Using color A (shown as green):

R1: Ch 24, working in second ch from hook, 1 HDC, *1 sl st into next st, 1 HDC into next st. Repeat from * across. (23 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Nostrils (make 2)

Using color A (shown as green):

R1: Ch 4.

Cut yarn, leaving strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Assembly & Finishing

See tutorial photos.

Attach the nostrils in an upside-down U shape on the top of the snout, over R3-4 with 1-2 stitches between the nostrils.

Attach the legs to the underside of the body. The front legs should be attached over R21-25, with approximately 7 sts across the belly between each leg. The back legs should be attached over R31-34, with approximately 6 sts across the belly between each leg.

Attach the ridges by sewing between each HDC bump. Starting at the nail, place each ridge from the tail up to the neck. The ridges will start right next to each other on the tail, and curve outward going up the back to about 5-6 sts apart at the widest point, and then curving inwards to the neck to about 3 sts apart. See tutorial photos.

I hope you enjoyed making Alan the Alligator! There is nothing I love more than seeing my designs come to life in different colors and yarns. Whether you’re giving your crochet alligator or adding him to your own collection, I’d love to see your finished work.

Ad-Free PDF Pattern for Alan the Alligator

Tips for Your Crochet Alligator

• Use Stitch Markers: Since Alan is worked in continuous rounds, place a stitch marker in the first stitch of every round of this free alligator crochet pattern to keep your place and ensure your stitch count remains accurate.
• Opt for Invisible Decrease: To prevent gaps in your stitches and to achieve a smoother finish on Alan’s body and tail, use the invisible decrease method rather than a standard decrease.
• Pin Before You Sew: Use pins to position the ridges, nostrils, and legs before sewing. This allows you to check for symmetry and ensure Alan sits level on his own.
• Master the Basics: If you are new to making stuffed animals, or just looking to level up your projects, be sure to check out my comprehensive posts on amigurumi tips and tricks for more advice.

Customizing Your Amigurumi Alligator

• Go Big with Plush Yarn: For a jumbo-sized version of Alan, try using a bulky plush yarn like Parfait Chunky. Just remember to use an appropriate hook size for your chosen yarn.
• Get Creative with Color: While Alan the Alligator amigurumi looks great in green, don’t be afraid to try non-traditional colors like blues, purples, or even a pink gator to make a unique gift.
• Add Playful Stripes: If you’re feeling adventurous, try adding a striped pattern to the body by changing yarn colors every few rounds to give your crochet crocodile a fun, whimsical personality.

More Free Amigurumi Crochet Patterns

If you enjoyed making this free alligator crochet pattern, you might love these other friendly faces! Each of these free crochet patterns are designed with the same beginner-friendly approach:

• Sheldon the Shark: If you want to stay with an aquatic theme, this free shark crochet pattern is a fan favorite and a great companion for Alan.
• Landon the Lion: For a bit of a safari adventure, check out this free lion crochet pattern to practice your amigurumi mane-making skills.
• Fergus the Frog: Short on time? This free frog crochet pattern is a completely no-sew pattern making his a super fast project for market prep or last minute gifts.