Mini Tanner the Triceratops – Free Dinosaur Crochet Pattern

ByNicole Chase

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Meet Mini Tanner, the smaller version of my crochet triceratops pattern, Tanner the Triceratops. Mini Tanner is about half the height of the original Tanner, making him the perfect size for creating dinosaur amigurumi families.

free mini crochet triceratops pattern

I hope you enjoy this free crochet pattern available here on my blog! An ad-free, formatted PDF version of this crochet pattern is also available for purchase here:

Ravelry
Etsy

If you like this crochet triceratops pattern, you may be interested in all of my other amigurumi dinosaur patterns. You can find all of my dinosaur crochet patterns here.

Be sure to add this mini triceratops crochet pattern to your project queue on Ravelry.

Pin this pattern on Pinterest.

I would classify this crochet pattern as “advanced beginner”. It would be helpful to have had some experience with amigurumi before creating this project.

Mini Tanner the Triceratops

Pattern Specifics

Measurements: Approximately 6” tall (sitting) or 8” tall (standing)
Gauge: Not necessary for this pattern; see notes
Hook Size: 4.0mm (G) crochet hook
Other Tools: tapestry needle, stitch markers, scissors
Yarn Weight: Medium (4) Worsted Weight
Yarn Used: WeCrochet/Knit Picks Brava Worsted
Yardage: color A (pink): 100 yds, color B (gray): 18 yds, color C (white): 4 yds
Other Materials: poly-fil stuffing, 9mm safety eyes

Stitch Abbreviations

st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
ch = chain
SC = single crochet
SC2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease is recommended)
FSC = foundation single crochet

Special Stitches

SC2tog (using invisible decrease method): Insert hook into front loop of the first stitch. Insert hook into front loop of second stitch. Yarn over. Draw through the first two loops on hook. Yarn over. Draw through both loops on hook.

Notes

  • Checking your gauge is not required for this pattern. Use a hook that is smaller than the size recommended for your yarn weight. This will ensure that your stuffing will not show through the stitches.
  • All pieces, with the exception of the frill, are worked in the round. Use a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of each round.
  • Invisible decreases are recommended. Please see “Special Stitches”.
  • Safety eyes and noses pose a choking risk for babies; therefore, if making this toy for a baby, I recommend using yarn, felt, or embroidered details.
  • Body, head, legs, arms, tail, and horns require stuffing. Stuff each piece as you work to ensure the piece is completely filled. Do not add stuffing to the frill.
  • See tutorial photos.

Pattern

Using 4.0mm (G) crochet hook:

Body

Using color A (shown as pink):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R6-11: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

R12: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R13-15: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R16: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Fill with stuffing.

Using color A (shown as pink):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4-6: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R7: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (21 sts)

R8: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (24 sts)

R9: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (27 sts)

R10: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (30 sts)

R11: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. Add a st marker to the last worked st. **2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from ** an additional 2 times. (36 sts)

The added st marker, and the st marker at the beginning of this round helps to indicate the front sides of the face. The first sequence of sts between the first and second st markers indicates the top of the head. The second sequence of sts between the second and first st markers indicates the bottom of the head. If using safety eyes, insert eyes between R8 and R9, with 7 sts between. You can now remove your second st marker. See tutorial photos.

R12-15: 1 SC in each st around. (36 sts)

R16: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R17: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R18: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R19: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R20: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

Fill head with stuffing.

R21: *SC2tog. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

Cut yarn, weave yarn in and out of remaining sts. Pull tight to close. Tie off and weave in ends.

Small Horn

Using color A (shown as pink):

R1: Begin with 4 SC in a magic ring. (4 sts)

R2: 1 SC in each st around. (4 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Large Horns (make 2)

Using color A (shown as pink):

R1: Begin with 4 SC in a magic ring. (4 sts)

R2: 1 SC in each st around. (4 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

R4-5: 1 SC in each st around. (6 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Frill Front

NOTE: When working the frill, be sure to complete the entire repeat. The repeat both starts and ends with 2SC. Therefore, when working the full sequence of stitches, followed by the same sequence of stitches, the row will look something like this: (2SC, 1SC, 2SC), (2SC, 1SC, 2SC), (2SC, 1SC, 2 SC), and so on.

*** NOTE: The foundation single crochet stitch is preferred; however, you could alternatively replace R1 with: Ch 19, SC in second ch from hook and each ch to end. (18 sts), and then proceed as written with R2.

Using color B (shown as gray):

R1: 18 FSC. (18 sts)

R2: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (30 sts)

R3: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (42 sts)

Cut yarn and fasten off.

Frill Back

Using color A (shown as pink):

R1: 18 FSC. (18 sts)

R2: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (30 sts)

R3: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (42 sts)

R4: Ch 1, turn. Hold the Frill Front against the Frill Back. Working through each layer, SC around the entire Frill to beginning, working 1 SC in each st, and 3 SC when rounding each of the four corners. See tutorial photos.

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Tail

Using color A (shown as pink):

R1: Begin with 4 SC in a magic ring. (4 sts)

R2: 1 SC in each st around. (4 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

R4: 1 SC in each st around. (6 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R6-7: 1 SC in each st around. (9 sts)

R8: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R9: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R10: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (15 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Fill with stuffing.

Legs (make 2)

Using color B (shown as gray):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

Using color A (shown as pink):

R5-6: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R7: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R8-9: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R10: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 7 sts. Repeat from * around. (16 sts)

R11-15: 1 SC in each st around. (16 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R16: Fold the leg closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (7 sts)

leg piece, filled with stuffing, prior to the leg being closed
leg piece with hook inserted through both sides to crochet them together
leg piece closed nearly all the way with single crochet stitches
leg piece closed nearly all the way with single crochet stitches, with hook through both sides of the next st
finished leg piece prior to fastening off
finished leg piece with long tail for sewing

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Arms (make 2)

Using color B (shown as gray):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

Using color A (shown as pink):

R4-5: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R6: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R7-13: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R14: Fold the arm closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (5 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Assembly & Finishing

See tutorial photos.

Attach small horn over R4-5, on the top middle of snout. Attach large horns between R12-14, on the top of the head.

Attach frill around the head, directly behind the large horns, at approximately R15.

Attach head to body so that the frill is upright, in line with the body, and the nose is facing straight out; attaching body to approximately R10-16 of the bottom of the head.

Attach legs over R5-6 of body, with each inside end of the legs touching in the middle. 

Attach arms over R11-15 on each side of the body, in line with the back of each leg. At the top of the arms, leave approximately 8 sts between each arm across the front of the body. At the bottom of the arms, leave approximately 15 sts between each arm across the front of the body.

Embroider 3 nails on each leg, over R4-6, leaving about 2 sts between each nail. 

Embroider 3 nails on each arm, over R3-4, leaving about 2 sts between each nail.

Attach tail over R4-8, on the back of the body.

I hope you enjoyed this mini crochet triceratops pattern! After you make this crochet triceratops, be sure to check out my other dinosaur patterns, such as the full size Tanner the Triceratops or Mini Stevie the Stygimoloch.

Video Tutorial for Mini Tanner the Triceratops

This video is also available on YouTube. Watch this video: Mini Tanner the Triceratops Amigurumi Crochet Tutorial on YouTube.

Ad-Free PDF Pattern for Mini Tanner the Triceratops

Ravelry
Etsy

We Crochet / Knit Picks Brava Worsted

Tips & Tricks

  • Use stitch markers to keep track of your continuous rounds when making this free mini triceratops crochet pattern.
  • Use pins to hold the pieces of your crochet triceratops when sewing to keep your pieces in their desired placement.
  • This list of amigurumi tips and tricks are great to follow for your crochet triceratops and other amigurumi projects.

Alterations

More Free Dinosaur Crochet Patterns

I hope that you enjoyed this free mini crochet triceratops pattern! If you love dinosaurs as much as I do, and want to crochet more amigurumi dinosaurs, check out my full collection of dinosaur crochet patterns.

First published April 2021.

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I’d love to see what you make with this tutorial! Don’t forget to share your finished work with me: on social media by tagging me @thenicolechase, in your Ravelry projects, or post over in my Facebook group!

Thanks for stopping by! Happy crafting!

Nicole

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PATTERN COPYRIGHT © 2025 NICOLE CHASE. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 
PATTERN MAY NOT BE ALTERED, COPIED, REDISTRIBUTED OR SOLD AS YOUR OWN PATTERN. 
YOU MAY SELL THE FINISHED PRODUCT ON A SMALL SCALE. PATTERN/DESIGN CREDIT GIVEN TO WWW.THENICOLECHASE.COM IS APPRECIATED. PERMISSION TO SELL DOES NOT INCLUDE MASS PRODUCTION. LARGE SCALE PRODUCTION IS PROHIBITED.

PHOTOGRAPHY COPYRIGHT © 2025 NICOLE CHASE. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 
PHOTOS MAY NOT BE ALTERED, COPIED, REDISTRIBUTED OR SOLD AS YOUR OWN.

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73 Comments

  1. Hi Nicole.
    When you use the Parfait Chunky yarn, do you size up your hook?
    This pattern is so cute, I can’t wait to begin!

    Reply

    1. Hello! Yes, when I use Parfait Chunky I generally use a 5mm crochet hook. I hope you enjoy the pattern!

      Reply

  2. Hi Nicole,
    I’m a bit lost on Rd 4 of stitching the two frills together. Can you clarify which four corners you’re describing that require three single crochets? What is the approximate stitch count needed to do three single crochets?

    Reply

    1. Hello! If you were to attempt to lay out the frill into as close to a rectangle as it could be, those are the 4 corners. I have a full video tutorial for this pattern which should also be able to help!

      Reply

    1. Hi! Have you tried using pins to hold it in place while you sew? That way it doesn’t move around while you’re sewing. Hope that helps!

      Reply

  4. Thank you for the wonderful dino patterns. I’m making mini Tanner as a knotted lovey with an unstuffed body. I have the head completed. Now I will crochet the body directly off the head and work down to the legs. After I crochet the first leg, I’ll reattach the yarn to the body and crochet the second leg. Then I will crochet the arms directly off the body. Doing it this way makes it much easier for me because I HATE sewing!

    Reply

  5. I had Bernat Blanket yarn left from a previous project so I used it fron Tanner the Triceratop. It turned out so cute. However due to the fact that the blanket yarn makes larger holes. I used trouser socks to hold the stuffing. It worked out prefect. You could also use knee highs but I just like the other because they don’t run as easily as knee highs.

    Reply

  6. Hi! I’m looking to make a triceratops in plush yarn, and I’m not sure if I should do the full size or mini pattern. Do you know the rough finished size of these patterns with a chunky yarn such as bernat blanket? Thanks so much!!!

    Reply

    1. Hello! I haven’t done one in Bernat Blanket, so I can’t say for sure. But I would say that when I make Mini Tanner in Parfait Chunky (which is a bit thinner than Bernat Blanket), it turns out to be about the same size as regular Tanner in worsted weight yarn. I prefer the minis in plush yarns, but it would really depend on how big you’re wanting. If you’re wanting one that’s really big, go for the large one. 🙂 Hope that helps!

      Reply

      1. Thanks! That is very helpful. (I’ve been asked to make three different animals as christmas presents and I dont want kids squabbling over “well his is bigger” etc. lol)

        Reply

  7. Hello,

    When we start row 12 when we do sc2tog then 3 sc. are the 3 single crochets also only in the front loop? Or are they done like normal? This is the hardest pattern I have done yet so there are some new stitches for me.

    Thank you!!

    Reply

    1. Hi there! To be clear, you’re asking if after you do the sc2tog using the invisible decrease method, if the following sts should be worked in the front loop? — No, the single crochet stitches will be worked as normal. The SC2tog (with the invisible decrease method) are the only ones worked in the front loop, unless otherwise specified in the pattern. Which in this pattern, that would be the only instance of working in the front loops. Hope that helps!

      Reply

  8. Hi Nicole,
    Thank you for the fast reply! You’re right, I overlooked the 2 sc after the 3 1sc’s on the mini Tanner.

    This is your 3rd pattern I’ve crocheted and they are wonderful!!! You are so talented in designing them! Thank you for sharing your talent!
    And thanks again for the fast reply!

    Reply

  9. Hello,
    On the Front Frill, round 3, I cannot get 42 stitches. I get 30 stitches on round 2, but on round 3, I can only get 38 stitches. I’ve ripped it out multiple times and redid it, but it always comes out to 38 stitches. And when I do the math, 2sc, then 1sc in next 3 sts comes out to a total of 38 sts. So it is supposed to be a total of 38 stitches?

    Reply

    1. Hi Tracy,

      Two things – First, it sounds like you are making the Frill for the full size Tanner the Triceratops, not Mini Tanner; which is the page that you’re commenting on. In the event that that is the case, then it seems like you aren’t doing the entire repeat. The repeat of stitches is 2, 1, 1, 1, 2. So it both starts and ends with 2 SC. So when you are working them all together, you’ll have 2 and 2 right next to each other: (2,1,1,1,2)(2,1,1,1,2), and so on. Hope that helps! Feel free to email me if you have any other questions.

      Thanks!

      Reply

      1. Hi Nicole,
        Thank you for the fast reply! You’re right, I overlooked the 2 sc after the 3 1sc’s on the mini Tanner.

        This is your 3rd pattern I’ve crocheted and they are wonderful!!! You are so talented in designing them! Thank you for sharing your talent!
        And thanks again for the fast reply!

        Reply

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