Mini Tanner the Triceratops – Free Dinosaur Crochet Pattern
*** I hope you enjoy this free crochet pattern available here on my blog! An ad-free, formatted PDF version of this crochet pattern is also available for purchase here:
After I created the crochet patterns for Tanner the Triceratops and the Hug Me Triceratops Lovey, I thought it was super fitting to round out this dinosaur group with a smaller version of Tanner! Don’t worry, this doesn’t require a thinner yarn or a smaller crochet hook (with the same amount of work!)… this is a completely brand new pattern, designed to replicate the original Tanner amigurumi, in miniature form!
Mini Tanner the Triceratops is about half the height of the full size Tanner, making it the perfect size for creating little dinosaur amigurumi families! This triceratops crochet pattern would also make a great gift for a new baby, with full size Tanner the Triceratops for a big brother or sister dinosaur lover.
For this free crochet pattern, I used WeCrochet’s Brava Worsted yarn in Cornflower and Dove Healther. In addition to worsted weight yarn, you’ll also need a 4.0mm (G) crochet hook, tapestry needle/yarn needle, scissors, safety eyes (if desired), and poly-fil stuffing. You can find all of these over on my Amazon page here.
If you like this pattern, you may be interested in all of my other amigurumi dinosaur patterns. You can find all of my dinosaur crochet patterns here.
Don’t forget to save this pattern in your favorites and add it to your project queue to save it for later! View this pattern on Ravelry here.
I would classify this crochet pattern as “advanced beginner”. It would be helpful to have had some experience with amigurumi before creating this project.
I’d love to see what you make with this tutorial! Don’t forget to share a photo of your finished work in your Ravelry projects and my Facebook group!
Mini Tanner the Triceratops
PATTERN SPECIFICS
Measurements: Approximately 5.5” tall (sitting) or 7.5” tall (standing)
Gauge: Not necessary for this pattern; see notes
Hook Size: 4.0mm (G)
Other Tools: tapestry needle, stitch markers, scissors
Yarn Weight: Medium (4), Worsted
Yarn Used: WeCrochet / Knit Picks Brava Worsted
Yardage: color A (blue): 91 yds, color B (gray): 18 yds, color C (white): 4 yds
Other Materials: poly-fil stuffing, 9mm safety eyes
ABBREVIATIONS
st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
ch = chain
SC = single crochet
SC2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease is recommended)
FSC = foundation single crochet
SPECIAL STITCHES
SC2tog (using invisible decrease method): Insert hook into front loop of the first stitch. Insert hook into front loop of second stitch. Yarn over. Draw through the first two loops on hook. Yarn over. Draw through both loops on hook.
NOTES
- Checking your gauge is not required for this pattern. Use a hook that is smaller than the size recommended for your yarn weight. This will ensure that your stuffing will not show through the stitches.
- All pieces, with the exception of the frill, are worked in the round. Use a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of each round.
- When working the frill, ch 1 at the beginning of each row does NOT count as a stitch (unless otherwise specified).
- Body, legs, arms, and tail require stuffing. Stuff as you work it to ensure each piece is completely filled. Do not add stuffing to the frill or horns.
PATTERN
Body
Using color A (shown as blue):
R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)
R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)
R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)
R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)
R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)
R6-11: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)
R12: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)
R13-15: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)
R16: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)
Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.
Fill with stuffing.
Head
Using color A (shown as blue):
R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)
R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)
R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)
R4-6: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)
R7: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (21 sts)
R8: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (24 sts)
R9: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (27 sts)
R10: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. Add a st marker to the last worked st. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (30 sts)
The added st marker, and the st marker at the beginning of this round helps to indicate the front of the face. The 9 sts between the two st markers sit flat and indicate the bottom of the head. If using safety eyes, insert eyes between R8 and R9, with 7 sts between. You can now remove your second st marker. See tutorial photos.
R11: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (36 sts)
R12-15: 1 SC in each st around. (36 sts)
R16: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)
R17: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)
R18: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)
R19: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)
R20: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)
Fill head with stuffing.
R21: *SC2tog. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)
Cut yarn, weave yarn in and out of remaining sts. Pull tight to close. Tie off and weave in ends.
Small Horn
Using color A (shown as blue):
R1: Begin with 4 SC in a magic ring. (4 sts)
R2: 1 SC in each st around. (4 sts)
Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.
Large Horns (make 2)
Using color A (shown as blue):
R1: Begin with 4 SC in a magic ring. (4 sts)
R2: 1 SC in each st around. (4 sts)
R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)
R4-5: 1 SC in each st around. (6 sts)
Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.
Frill Front
NOTE: When working the frill, be sure to complete the entire repeat. The repeat both starts and ends with 2SC. Therefore, when working the full sequence of stitches, followed by the same sequence of stitches, the row will look something like this like this: (2SC, 1SC, 2SC), (2SC, 1SC, 2SC), (2SC, 1 SC, 2 SC), and so on.
Using color B (shown as gray):
R1: 18 FSC. (18 sts)
R2: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (30 sts)
R3: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (42 sts)
Cut yarn and fasten off.
Frill Back
Using color A (shown as blue):
R1: 18 FSC. (18 sts)
R2: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (30 sts)
R3: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (42 sts)
R4: Ch 1, turn. Hold the Frill Front against the Frill Back. Working through each layer, SC around the entire Frill to beginning, working 1 SC in each st, and 3 SC when rounding each of the four corners. See tutorial photos.
Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.
Tail
Using color A (shown as blue):
R1: Begin with 4 SC in a magic ring. (4 sts)
R2: 1 SC in each st around. (4 sts)
R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)
R4: 1 SC in each st around. (6 sts)
R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)
R6-7: 1 SC in each st around. (9 sts)
R8: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)
R9: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)
R10: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (15 sts)
Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.
Fill with stuffing.
Legs (make 2)
Using color B (shown as gray):
R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)
R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)
R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)
R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)
Using color A (shown as blue):
R5-6: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)
R7: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)
R8-9: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)
R10: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 7 sts. Repeat from * around. (16 sts)
R11-15: 1 SC in each st around. (16 sts)
Fill with stuffing.
R16: Fold the leg closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (7 sts)
Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing.
Arms (make 2)
Using color B (shown as gray):
R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)
R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)
R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)
Using color A (shown as blue):
R4-5: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)
R6: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)
R7-13: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)
Fill with stuffing.
R14: Fold the arm closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (5 sts)
Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing.
ASSEMBLY & FINISHING
See tutorial photos.
Attach small horn over R4-5, on the top middle of snout. Attach large horns between R12-14, on the top of the head.
Attach frill around the head, directly behind the large horns, at approximately R15.
Attach head to body so that the frill is upright, in line with the body, and the nose is facing straight out; attaching body to approximately R10-16 of the bottom of the head.
Attach legs over R4-5 of body, with each inside end of the legs touching in the middle.
Embroider 3 nails on each leg, over R3-5, leaving about 2 sts between each nail.
Attach arms over R11-15 on each side of the body, in line with the back of each leg. At the top of the arms, leave approximately 8 sts between each arm across the front of the body. At the bottom of the arms, leave approximately 15 sts between each arm across the front of the body.
Embroider 3 nails on each arm, over R3-4, leaving about 2 sts between each nail.
Attach tail over R4-8, on the back of the body.
*Note: Safety eyes and noses pose a choking risk for babies; therefore, if making this toy for a baby, I recommend using yarn, felt, or embroidered details.
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Thanks for stopping by! Happy crafting!
Nicole
PATTERN COPYRIGHT © 2023 NICOLE CHASE. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
PATTERN MAY NOT BE ALTERED, COPIED, REDISTRIBUTED OR SOLD AS YOUR OWN PATTERN.
YOU MAY SELL THE FINISHED PRODUCT ON A SMALL SCALE. PATTERN/DESIGN CREDIT GIVEN TO WWW.THENICOLECHASE.COM IS APPRECIATED. PERMISSION TO SELL DOES NOT INCLUDE MASS PRODUCTION. LARGE SCALE PRODUCTION IS PROHIBITED.
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PHOTOS MAY NOT BE ALTERED, COPIED, REDISTRIBUTED OR SOLD AS YOUR OWN.
No matter what I do with the frill I can’t get the stitches to be the right count. I’ve made two of the large versions of this following the YouTube video with no problem. With the mini frill I’m making sure my fsc is 18 and then my next row is 28 or 29. Once I got it to be 30 but then my next row was only 29 or something I couldn’t make it to 42. Please any help because I’m making this for a birthday gift and I have started over the grill at least 10 times and cannot get it right
Hello,
You are likely not doing the entire repeat, which both starts and ends with 2 SC. So it will have 2, 1, 2, 2, 1, 2, 2, 1, 2, 2, 1, 2, and so on. Notice that 2 and 2 are right next to each other. Hope that helps! Feel free to email me if you need additional assistance.
I meant row 7 of the head
Hi I ave a question about row 4 on the head. It says that we do 2 increases and 2 single crochets twice. That adds up to 8 stitches and covers 6 stitch spaces the you say to sc 9 witch adds up to 9 stitches 9 plus 6 equals 15 what do I do with the rest 3 stitches
Hello,
You do that first repeat for a total of 3 times. You complete the repeat, and then repeat an ADDITIONAL 2 times, for a total of 3. Then the 9 sts.
Thank you for the fast reply now I get it I can’t wait to make it. I am doing a dragon fruit version
Frill* but also .. I get it now !! Ty
I know it says refer to tutorial photos for the “corners” on the grill and doing 3sc in those but I’m not seeing it clearly in the photos. And it almost feels like 5 corners ? Just a little lost right there.
I see your other comment, so glad you worked it out!
For anyone else reading this who might have the same issue – the corners are not the “points” on the frill, rather the corners of the frill if you were to lay it out in a rectangular shape. 🙂
In R4 or the 2nd frill I the 3SC in each corner is that 3 Sc in 1 st
Yes, it is 3 SC in one stitch.
Hi! When you make this in parfait chunky, how many yards did you use?
It’s about the same yardage as listed in the pattern for me. 🙂
I love it!thank you! on row 5 I did a decrease at the 1st and last increases and it gave it little cheeks!
Hi, in the head. I don’t get 36 stitches before I get to my marker. Am I doing something wrong or am I supposed to go past the stitch marker until I hit 36?
Hello! Be sure that you have the correct count on the prior round. If that prior round isn’t correct, the following one won’t work out. Hope that helps!
Hi! Going to get yarn for this mini triceratops…so cute! Please advise: is it preferable to use the worsted/acrylic yarn as you have here? I have seen some amigarumi patterns using cotton, and wonder if you have tried cotton or cotton blend? Would that work OK?
Hi! That is definitely just personal preference. I don’t care for the feel of cotton, but it would be equally durable for a toy. I also find the color selections for acrylic to be larger, and it tends to be softer. Either way would be fine! ????
Thanks so much for quick reply. Acrylic yarn just seems to be more prone to fray and look fuzzy. But the example in your post looks really neat and clean. Maybe it’s the brand.