Mini Tanner the Triceratops – Free Dinosaur Crochet Pattern

Meet Mini Tanner, the smaller version of my crochet triceratops pattern, Tanner the Triceratops. Mini Tanner is about half the height of the original Tanner, making him the perfect size for creating dinosaur amigurumi families.

free mini crochet triceratops pattern


I hope you enjoy this free crochet pattern available here on my blog! An ad-free, formatted PDF version of this crochet pattern is also available for purchase here:


If you like this crochet triceratops pattern, you may be interested in all of my other amigurumi dinosaur patterns. You can find all of my dinosaur crochet patterns here.

Be sure to add this mini triceratops crochet pattern to your project queue on Ravelry.

Pin this pattern on Pinterest.

I would classify this crochet pattern as “advanced beginner”. It would be helpful to have had some experience with amigurumi before creating this project.

Mini Tanner the Triceratops

Pattern Specifics

Measurements: Approximately 6” tall (sitting) or 8” tall (standing)
Gauge: Not necessary for this pattern; see notes
Hook Size: 4.0mm (G) crochet hook
Other Tools: tapestry needle, stitch markers, scissors
Yarn Weight: Medium (4) Worsted Weight
Yarn Used: WeCrochet/Knit Picks Brava Worsted
Yardage: color A (pink): 100 yds, color B (gray): 18 yds, color C (white): 4 yds
Other Materials: poly-fil stuffing, 9mm safety eyes

Stitch Abbreviations

st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
ch = chain
SC = single crochet
SC2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease is recommended)
FSC = foundation single crochet

Special Stitches

SC2tog (using invisible decrease method): Insert hook into front loop of the first stitch. Insert hook into front loop of second stitch. Yarn over. Draw through the first two loops on hook. Yarn over. Draw through both loops on hook.

Notes

  • Checking your gauge is not required for this pattern. Use a hook that is smaller than the size recommended for your yarn weight. This will ensure that your stuffing will not show through the stitches.
  • All pieces, with the exception of the frill, are worked in the round. Use a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of each round.
  • Invisible decreases are recommended. Please see “Special Stitches”.
  • Safety eyes and noses pose a choking risk for babies; therefore, if making this toy for a baby, I recommend using yarn, felt, or embroidered details.
  • Body, head, legs, arms, tail, and horns require stuffing. Stuff each piece as you work to ensure the piece is completely filled. Do not add stuffing to the frill.
  • See tutorial photos.

Pattern

Using 4.0mm (G) crochet hook:

Body

Using color A (shown as pink):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R6-11: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

R12: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R13-15: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R16: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Fill with stuffing.

Using color A (shown as pink):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4-6: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R7: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (21 sts)

R8: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (24 sts)

R9: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (27 sts)

R10: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (30 sts)

R11: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. Add a st marker to the last worked st. **2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from ** an additional 2 times. (36 sts)

The added st marker, and the st marker at the beginning of this round helps to indicate the front sides of the face. The first sequence of sts between the first and second st markers indicates the top of the head. The second sequence of sts between the second and first st markers indicates the bottom of the head. If using safety eyes, insert eyes between R8 and R9, with 7 sts between. You can now remove your second st marker. See tutorial photos.

R12-15: 1 SC in each st around. (36 sts)

R16: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R17: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R18: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R19: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R20: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

Fill head with stuffing.

R21: *SC2tog. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

Cut yarn, weave yarn in and out of remaining sts. Pull tight to close. Tie off and weave in ends.

Small Horn

Using color A (shown as pink):

R1: Begin with 4 SC in a magic ring. (4 sts)

R2: 1 SC in each st around. (4 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Large Horns (make 2)

Using color A (shown as pink):

R1: Begin with 4 SC in a magic ring. (4 sts)

R2: 1 SC in each st around. (4 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

R4-5: 1 SC in each st around. (6 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Frill Front

NOTE: When working the frill, be sure to complete the entire repeat. The repeat both starts and ends with 2SC. Therefore, when working the full sequence of stitches, followed by the same sequence of stitches, the row will look something like this: (2SC, 1SC, 2SC), (2SC, 1SC, 2SC), (2SC, 1SC, 2 SC), and so on.

*** NOTE: The foundation single crochet stitch is preferred; however, you could alternatively replace R1 with: Ch 19, SC in second ch from hook and each ch to end. (18 sts), and then proceed as written with R2.

Using color B (shown as gray):

R1: 18 FSC. (18 sts)

R2: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (30 sts)

R3: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (42 sts)

Cut yarn and fasten off.

Frill Back

Using color A (shown as pink):

R1: 18 FSC. (18 sts)

R2: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (30 sts)

R3: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (42 sts)

R4: Ch 1, turn. Hold the Frill Front against the Frill Back. Working through each layer, SC around the entire Frill to beginning, working 1 SC in each st, and 3 SC when rounding each of the four corners. See tutorial photos.

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Tail

Using color A (shown as pink):

R1: Begin with 4 SC in a magic ring. (4 sts)

R2: 1 SC in each st around. (4 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

R4: 1 SC in each st around. (6 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R6-7: 1 SC in each st around. (9 sts)

R8: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R9: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R10: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (15 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Fill with stuffing.

Legs (make 2)

Using color B (shown as gray):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

Using color A (shown as pink):

R5-6: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R7: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R8-9: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R10: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 7 sts. Repeat from * around. (16 sts)

R11-15: 1 SC in each st around. (16 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R16: Fold the leg closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (7 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Arms (make 2)

Using color B (shown as gray):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

Using color A (shown as pink):

R4-5: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R6: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R7-13: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R14: Fold the arm closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (5 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Assembly & Finishing

See tutorial photos.

Attach small horn over R4-5, on the top middle of snout. Attach large horns between R12-14, on the top of the head.

Attach frill around the head, directly behind the large horns, at approximately R15.

Attach head to body so that the frill is upright, in line with the body, and the nose is facing straight out; attaching body to approximately R10-16 of the bottom of the head.

Attach legs over R5-6 of body, with each inside end of the legs touching in the middle. 

Attach arms over R11-15 on each side of the body, in line with the back of each leg. At the top of the arms, leave approximately 8 sts between each arm across the front of the body. At the bottom of the arms, leave approximately 15 sts between each arm across the front of the body.

Embroider 3 nails on each leg, over R4-6, leaving about 2 sts between each nail. 

Embroider 3 nails on each arm, over R3-4, leaving about 2 sts between each nail.

Attach tail over R4-8, on the back of the body.

I hope you enjoyed this mini crochet triceratops pattern! After you make this crochet triceratops, be sure to check out my other dinosaur patterns, such as the full size Tanner the Triceratops or Mini Stevie the Stygimoloch.

Ad-Free PDF Pattern for Mini Tanner the Triceratops

We Crochet / Knit Picks Brava Worsted

Tips & Tricks

  • Use stitch markers to keep track of your continuous rounds when making this free mini triceratops crochet pattern.
  • Use pins to hold the pieces of your crochet triceratops when sewing to keep your pieces in their desired placement.
  • This list of amigurumi tips and tricks are great to follow for your crochet triceratops and other amigurumi projects.

Alterations

More Free Dinosaur Crochet Patterns

I hope that you enjoyed this free mini crochet triceratops pattern! If you love dinosaurs as much as I do, and want to crochet more amigurumi dinosaurs, check out my full collection of dinosaur crochet patterns.


I hope you enjoyed this pattern! If you make it, leave me a comment below.

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Thanks for stopping by! Happy crafting!

Nicole

PATTERN COPYRIGHT © 2024 NICOLE CHASE. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 
PATTERN MAY NOT BE ALTERED, COPIED, REDISTRIBUTED OR SOLD AS YOUR OWN PATTERN. 
YOU MAY SELL THE FINISHED PRODUCT ON A SMALL SCALE. PATTERN/DESIGN CREDIT GIVEN TO WWW.THENICOLECHASE.COM IS APPRECIATED. PERMISSION TO SELL DOES NOT INCLUDE MASS PRODUCTION. LARGE SCALE PRODUCTION IS PROHIBITED.

PHOTOGRAPHY COPYRIGHT © 2024 NICOLE CHASE. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 
PHOTOS MAY NOT BE ALTERED, COPIED, REDISTRIBUTED OR SOLD AS YOUR OWN.

56 Comments

  1. Just finished using this pattern with a chunky baby blanket yarn for my nephew. It turned out about 12″ tall sitting, and 15″ standing. Definitely imperfect (I’m still a beginner at this whole crochet thing), but so much fun to make! Thank you so much for sharing such a cute pattern!

  2. Thank you so much for your patterns!! I have just finished this one, and did the mini Andy as well.
    Now I have to buy morn yard to do the rest!! LOL
    If you want photos of them, please email me and I will send you back the photos.

  3. No matter what I do with the frill I can’t get the stitches to be the right count. I’ve made two of the large versions of this following the YouTube video with no problem. With the mini frill I’m making sure my fsc is 18 and then my next row is 28 or 29. Once I got it to be 30 but then my next row was only 29 or something I couldn’t make it to 42. Please any help because I’m making this for a birthday gift and I have started over the grill at least 10 times and cannot get it right

    1. Hello,

      You are likely not doing the entire repeat, which both starts and ends with 2 SC. So it will have 2, 1, 2, 2, 1, 2, 2, 1, 2, 2, 1, 2, and so on. Notice that 2 and 2 are right next to each other. Hope that helps! Feel free to email me if you need additional assistance.

  4. Hi I ave a question about row 4 on the head. It says that we do 2 increases and 2 single crochets twice. That adds up to 8 stitches and covers 6 stitch spaces the you say to sc 9 witch adds up to 9 stitches 9 plus 6 equals 15 what do I do with the rest 3 stitches

    1. Hello,

      You do that first repeat for a total of 3 times. You complete the repeat, and then repeat an ADDITIONAL 2 times, for a total of 3. Then the 9 sts.

  5. I know it says refer to tutorial photos for the “corners” on the grill and doing 3sc in those but I’m not seeing it clearly in the photos. And it almost feels like 5 corners ? Just a little lost right there.

    1. I see your other comment, so glad you worked it out!

      For anyone else reading this who might have the same issue – the corners are not the “points” on the frill, rather the corners of the frill if you were to lay it out in a rectangular shape. 🙂

      1. This mini frill just isn’t making sense to me. I can never end with 30, I always end with 27 or 28. I have literally restarted this 25 times and cannot figure out where I am going wrong. How many times are we repeating each of these sequences? I cannot get past that first sequence and it’s driving me crazy

        1. Hello,

          It sounds like you aren’t doing the entire repeat. It is (2, 1, 2), (2, 1, 2), and so on. So there is 2 and 2 right next to each other for every repeat. Also, if you are off by even one stitch for R1, it will not work out. R1 should have 18 FSC sts. If you are instead doing a ch + SC in it’s place, you will have to ch 19, then SC 18. Hope that helps!

  6. Hi, in the head. I don’t get 36 stitches before I get to my marker. Am I doing something wrong or am I supposed to go past the stitch marker until I hit 36?

    1. Hello! Be sure that you have the correct count on the prior round. If that prior round isn’t correct, the following one won’t work out. Hope that helps!

  7. Hi! Going to get yarn for this mini triceratops…so cute! Please advise: is it preferable to use the worsted/acrylic yarn as you have here? I have seen some amigarumi patterns using cotton, and wonder if you have tried cotton or cotton blend? Would that work OK?

    1. Hi! That is definitely just personal preference. I don’t care for the feel of cotton, but it would be equally durable for a toy. I also find the color selections for acrylic to be larger, and it tends to be softer. Either way would be fine! ????

      1. Thanks so much for quick reply. Acrylic yarn just seems to be more prone to fray and look fuzzy. But the example in your post looks really neat and clean. Maybe it’s the brand.

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