Mini Parker the Parasaurolophus – Free Dinosaur Crochet Pattern

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My favorite dinosaur is the Parasaurolophus, so I absolutely had to add one to my amigurumi dinosaur collection! Mini Parker the Parasaurolophus is the smaller version of my Parker the Parasaurolophus crochet pattern.

mini amigurumi dinosaur Parasaurolophus

I would classify this free amigurumi dinosaur crochet pattern as “advanced beginner”. It would be helpful to have had some experience with amigurumi before creating this project.


I hope you enjoy this free crochet pattern available here on my blog! An ad-free, formatted PDF version of this crochet pattern is also available for purchase here:


If you like this pattern, you may also be interested in all of my other free dinosaur crochet patterns.

Pin this free amigurumi dinosaur crochet pattern on Pinterest.

Add this mini Parasaurolophus crochet pattern to your favorites on Ravelry.

Free Crochet Pattern for Mini Parker the Parasaurolophus

Pattern Specifics

Measurements: Approximately 5” tall (sitting) or 7” tall (standing)
Gauge: Not necessary for this pattern; see notes
Hook Size: 4.0mm (G) crochet hook
Other Tools: tapestry needle, stitch markers, scissors (grab these on Amazon)
Yarn Weight: Medium (4) Worsted Weight
Yarn Used: WeCrochet / Knit Picks Brava Worsted
Yardage: color A (green): 66 yds, color B (light green): 25 yds, color C (white): 4 yds
Other Materials: poly-fil stuffing, 9mm safety eyes

Stitch Abbreviations

st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
ch = chain
SC = single crochet
SC2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease is recommended)

Special Stitches

SC2tog (using invisible decrease method): Insert hook into front loop of the first stitch. Insert hook into front loop of second stitch. Yarn over. Draw through the first two loops on hook. Yarn over. Draw through both loops on hook.

Notes

  • Checking your gauge is not required for this pattern. Use a hook that is smaller than the size recommended for your yarn weight. This will ensure that your stuffing will not show through the stitches.
  • All pieces are worked in the round, unless otherwise specified. Use a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of each round.
  • Invisible decreases are recommended. Please see “Special Stitches”.
  • Safety eyes and noses pose a choking risk for babies; therefore, if making this toy for a baby, I recommend using yarn, felt, or embroidered details.
  • Body, head, crest, legs, arms, and tail require stuffing. Stuff each piece as you work to ensure the piece is completely filled.
  • See tutorial photos.

Pattern

Using 4.0mm (G) hook:

Body

Using color A (shown as green):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (28 sts)

R6-10: 1 SC in each st around. (28 sts)

R11: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R12-16: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R17: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R18: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Fill with stuffing.

Using color B (shown as light green):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3-4: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

Using color A (shown as green):

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R6: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R7: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (21 sts)

R8: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (24 sts)

R9: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (27 sts)

R10: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (30 sts)

R11: 1 SC in each of the next 16 sts. Add a st marker to the last worked st. 1 SC in each of the next 14 sts.

The added st marker, and the st marker at the beginning of this round helps to indicate the front of the face. The first sequence of sts between the first and second st markers indicates the top of the head. The second sequence of sts between the second and first st markers indicates the bottom of the head. If using safety eyes, insert eyes between R8 and R9, with 7 sts between. You can now remove your second st marker. See tutorial photos.

R12-15: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

R16: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R17: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R18: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R19: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R20: *SC2tog. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

Cut yarn, weave yarn in and out of remaining sts. Pull tight to close. Tie off and weave in ends.

Crest

Using color B (shown as light green):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts, 2 SC in each of the next 3 sts, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts, 2 SC in each of the next 3 sts, 1 SC in next st. (18 sts)

R4-9: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R10: 1 SC in next st, SC2tog, SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 13 sts. (16 sts)

R11: SC2tog, SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 12 sts. (14 sts)

*Note that R12 has fewer stitches than the previous and is not a “complete” round. You will not work in every stitch from R11.

R12: 1 HDC in each of the next 3 sts, 1 SC in each of the next 10 sts. Leave the final stitch unworked. (14 sts)

Fill crest with stuffing.

*Note that R13 will now begin in the final stitch that was left unworked.

R13: Fold the crest closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (6 sts)

R14-15: Ch 1, turn, 1 SC in each st across. (6 sts)

R16: Ch 1, turn, SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts, SC2tog. (4 sts)

R17-19: Ch 1, turn, 1 SC in each st across. (4 sts)

R20: Ch 1, turn, 1 SC in next st, SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. (3 sts)

R21-25: Ch 1, turn, 1 SC in each st across. (3 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Legs (make 2)

Using color B (shown as light green):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (21 sts)

Using color A (shown as green):

R5-6: 1 SC in each st around. (21 sts)

R7: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R8: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R9: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 7 sts. Repeat from * around. (16 sts)

R10-14: 1 SC in each st around. (16 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R15: Fold the leg closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (7 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Arms (make 2)

Using color B (shown as light green):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

Using color A (shown as green):

R4-5: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R6: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R7-11: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R12: Fold the arm closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (5 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Tail

Using color A (shown as green):

R1: Begin with 4 SC in a magic ring. (4 sts)

R2: 1 SC in each st around. (4 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

R4: 1 SC in each st around. (6 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R6-7: 1 SC in each st around. (9 sts)

R8: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R9: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R10: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (15 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Fill with stuffing.

Assembly & Finishing

See tutorial photos.

Align the final row of the crest to R3-4 of the head, where the color change starts. Be sure that the HDC sts in R12 of the crest are facing up when attaching. Secure the flat piece of the crest to the head. Secure the edge of the stuffed piece to the head to prevent it from folding over.

Attach head to body so that the nose is facing straight out; attaching body to approximately R10-16 of the bottom of the head.

Attach legs over R4-5 of body, with each inside end of the legs touching in the middle. 

Using color D (shown as white), embroider 3 nails on each leg, over R4-6, leaving about 2 sts between each nail. 

Attach arms over R10-16 on each side of the body, in line with the back of each leg. At the top of the arms, leave approximately 9 sts between each arm across the front of the body. At the bottom of the arms, leave approximately 13 sts between each arm across the front of the body.

Using color D (shown as white), embroider 3 nails on each arm, over R3-4, leaving about 2 sts between each nail.

Attach tail over R4-8, on the back of the body.

I hope you enjoyed this free amigurumi dinosaur Parasaurolophus crochet pattern!

We Crochet / Knit Picks Brava Worsted

Ad-Free PDF Pattern for Mini Parker the Parasaurolophus

Tips & Tricks

  • While making this free amigurumi dinosaur pattern, use a stitch marker to keep track of each of your continuous rounds.
  • Use the invisible decrease method for your SC2tog stitches to create more uniform stitches on your amigurumi dinosaur.
  • Check out my list of amigurumi tips and tricks for more helpful ideas to improve your crochet Parasaurolophus!

Alterations

More Free Dinosaur Crochet Patterns

If you enjoyed this small Parasaurolophus amigurumi dinosaur crochet pattern, you may also enjoy all of my free dinosaur crochet patterns! Be sure to check out my small Stygimoloch crochet pattern and my full size Parasaurolophus!


I hope you enjoyed this pattern! If you make it, leave me a comment below.

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I’d love to see what you make with this tutorial! Don’t forget to share your finished work with me: on social media by tagging me @thenicolechase, in your Ravelry projects, or post over in my Facebook group!

Thanks for stopping by! Happy crafting!

Nicole

PATTERN COPYRIGHT © 2024 NICOLE CHASE. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 
PATTERN MAY NOT BE ALTERED, COPIED, REDISTRIBUTED OR SOLD AS YOUR OWN PATTERN. 
YOU MAY SELL THE FINISHED PRODUCT ON A SMALL SCALE. PATTERN/DESIGN CREDIT GIVEN TO WWW.THENICOLECHASE.COM IS APPRECIATED. PERMISSION TO SELL DOES NOT INCLUDE MASS PRODUCTION. LARGE SCALE PRODUCTION IS PROHIBITED.

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PHOTOS MAY NOT BE ALTERED, COPIED, REDISTRIBUTED OR SOLD AS YOUR OWN.

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3 Comments

  1. Thank you so much for all these wonderful dinosaur patterns! The worst thing about them is deciding wich one to make next ^^

  2. Oh gosh, I am grabbing these and going to get a head start for next year for my grandson. I am going to maybe try and do a busy book also, I think he would smile his beautiful smile. My crooked fingers need to hold up for now, God willing but YOU have given these beautiful patterns and written so well and I thank you so very much. May you and yours be Blesses this Christmas and coming year <3

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