Mini Parker the Parasaurolophus – Free Dinosaur Crochet Pattern

My favorite dinosaur has always been the parasaurolophus, so it was only a matter of time before I added this to my amigurumi dinosaur collection. Mini Parker the Parasaurolophus is a free parasaurolophus crochet pattern designed for those who love the unique look of this crested dinosaur in a small, quick project.

As a designer, I wanted to ensure that this mini version kept the iconic shape of the original Parker the Parasaurolophus, but in a size that is smaller and especially great for plush yarns.

I would classify this small parasaurolophus crochet pattern as “advanced beginner”. It would be helpful to have had some experience with amigurumi before creating this project.

I hope you enjoy this free crochet pattern available here on my blog! An ad-free, formatted PDF version of this crochet pattern is also available for purchase here:

If you like this small dinosaur amigurumi, you might also like my full collection of free dinosaur crochet patterns, including Mini Tanner the Triceratops and Mini Toby the Tarbosaurus.

• Pin it for later: Pin this amigurumi dinosaur pattern to your Pinterest account so you can find it when you’re ready to start!
• Keep it in your queue: Add this mini Parasaurolophus crochet pattern to your favorites on Ravelry to keep all of your dinosaur makes organized.

Free Crochet Pattern for Mini Parker the Parasaurolophus

Stitch Abbreviations

st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
ch = chain
SC = single crochet
SC2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease is recommended)

Special Stitches

SC2tog (using invisible decrease method): Insert hook into front loop of the first stitch. Insert hook into front loop of second stitch. Yarn over. Draw through the first two loops on hook. Yarn over. Draw through both loops on hook.

Notes

• Checking your gauge is not required for this pattern. Use a hook that is smaller than the size recommended for your yarn weight. This will ensure that your stuffing will not show through the stitches.
• All pieces are worked in the round, unless otherwise specified. Use a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of each round.
• Invisible decreases are recommended. Please see “Special Stitches”.
• Safety eyes and noses pose a choking risk for babies; therefore, if making this toy for a baby, I recommend using yarn, felt, or embroidered details.
• Body, head, crest, legs, arms, and tail require stuffing. Stuff each piece as you work to ensure the piece is completely filled.
• See tutorial photos.

Pattern

Using 4.0mm (G) hook:

Body

Using color A (shown as green):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (28 sts)

R6-10: 1 SC in each st around. (28 sts)

R11: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R12-16: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R17: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R18: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Fill with stuffing.

Head

Using color B (shown as light green):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3-4: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

Using color A (shown as green):

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R6: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R7: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (21 sts)

R8: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (24 sts)

R9: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (27 sts)

R10: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (30 sts)

R11: 1 SC in each of the next 16 sts. Add a st marker to the last worked st. 1 SC in each of the next 14 sts.

The added st marker, and the st marker at the beginning of this round helps to indicate the front of the face. The first sequence of sts between the first and second st markers indicates the top of the head. The second sequence of sts between the second and first st markers indicates the bottom of the head. If using safety eyes, insert eyes between R8 and R9, with 7 sts between. You can now remove your second st marker. See tutorial photos.

R12-15: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

R16: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R17: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R18: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R19: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R20: *SC2tog. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

Cut yarn, weave yarn in and out of remaining sts. Pull tight to close. Tie off and weave in ends.

Crest

Using color B (shown as light green):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts, 2 SC in each of the next 3 sts, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts, 2 SC in each of the next 3 sts, 1 SC in next st. (18 sts)

R4-9: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R10: 1 SC in next st, SC2tog, SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 13 sts. (16 sts)

R11: SC2tog, SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 12 sts. (14 sts)

*Note that R12 has fewer stitches than the previous and is not a “complete” round. You will not work in every stitch from R11.

R12: 1 HDC in each of the next 3 sts, 1 SC in each of the next 10 sts. Leave the final stitch unworked. (14 sts)

Fill crest with stuffing.

*Note that R13 will now begin in the final stitch that was left unworked.

R13: Fold the crest closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (6 sts)

R14-15: Ch 1, turn, 1 SC in each st across. (6 sts)

R16: Ch 1, turn, SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts, SC2tog. (4 sts)

R17-19: Ch 1, turn, 1 SC in each st across. (4 sts)

R20: Ch 1, turn, 1 SC in next st, SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. (3 sts)

R21-25: Ch 1, turn, 1 SC in each st across. (3 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Legs (make 2)

Using color B (shown as light green):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (21 sts)

Using color A (shown as green):

R5-6: 1 SC in each st around. (21 sts)

R7: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R8: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R9: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 7 sts. Repeat from * around. (16 sts)

R10-14: 1 SC in each st around. (16 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R15: Fold the leg closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (7 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Arms (make 2)

Using color B (shown as light green):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

Using color A (shown as green):

R4-5: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R6: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R7-11: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R12: Fold the arm closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (5 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Tail

Using color A (shown as green):

R1: Begin with 4 SC in a magic ring. (4 sts)

R2: 1 SC in each st around. (4 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

R4: 1 SC in each st around. (6 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R6-7: 1 SC in each st around. (9 sts)

R8: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R9: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R10: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (15 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Fill with stuffing.

Assembly & Finishing

See tutorial photos.

Align the final row of the crest to R3-4 of the head, where the color change starts. Be sure that the HDC sts in R12 of the crest are facing up when attaching. Secure the flat piece of the crest to the head. Secure the edge of the stuffed piece to the head to prevent it from folding over.

Attach head to body so that the nose is facing straight out; attaching body to approximately R10-16 of the bottom of the head.

Attach legs over R4-5 of body, with each inside end of the legs touching in the middle. 

Using color D (shown as white), embroider 3 nails on each leg, over R4-6, leaving about 2 sts between each nail. 

Attach arms over R10-16 on each side of the body, in line with the back of each leg. At the top of the arms, leave approximately 9 sts between each arm across the front of the body. At the bottom of the arms, leave approximately 13 sts between each arm across the front of the body.

Using color D (shown as white), embroider 3 nails on each arm, over R3-4, leaving about 2 sts between each nail.

Attach tail over R4-8, on the back of the body.

I hope you enjoyed making your own Mini Parker! This free parasaurolophus crochet pattern was such a fun challenge to design.

Ad-Free PDF Pattern for Mini Parker the Parasaurolophus

Tips for Your Crochet Parasaurolophus

Having designed several dinosaur crochet patterns in this series, I’ve found that there are a few techniques that help make Mini Parker (and all amigurumi) turn out really well!

• Track Your Rounds: Since amigurumi is worked in continuous rounds, always use a stitch marker to indicate the first stitch of each round. This is especially important for the head and crest, where stitch counts are crucial for shaping.
• The Invisible Decrease: To avoid gaps where the stuffing might show through, I highly recommend using the invisible decrease method for your SC2tog stitches. This creates a smoother finish on your amigurumi.
• Deep Dive: For more ways to level up your work, check out my full list of amigurumi tips and tricks to make your crochet Parasaurolophus look professional!

Making Your Parasaurolophus Unique

One of the best things about amigurumi is how easy it is to customize the size of your finished project.

• Go Jumbo with Plush Yarn: If you want a larger, cuddly plush, you can use a super bulky weight yarn like Parfait Chunky. When using this yarn, I recommend a 5.0mm hook, but you can check out this tutorial on choosing your amigurumi hook size for more recommendations on hook size for plush yarns.
• Larger Pattern: If you’re looking for a larger version of this crested dinosaur, be sure to check out the original Parker the Parasaurolophus crochet pattern.
• Pro Tip: Remember that using a larger yarn and hook will increase the amount of yardage used, stuffing needed, and you will need larger safety eyes. For a plush version, I typically use a 12mm safety eye.

Your Next Amigurumi Project

If you enjoyed making Mini Parker, you can find even more prehistoric friends in my free dinosaur crochet patterns collection.

Expand Your Mini Dino Collection:

• Mini Stygimoloch: If you loved the challenge of the crest, you’ll enjoy the unique head design of my small Stygimoloch crochet pattern.
• Mini Tanner: For a classic favorite, try the Mini Tanner the Triceratops pattern.
• Original Parker: Want to see the design that Mini Parker is based on? Check out the full-size Parker the Parasaurolophus.

Browse more patterns: Looking for something else? Explore my full library of free amigurumi patterns or my curated collection of free animal crochet patterns for your next project.

First published November 2022.