Tanner the Triceratops – Free Dinosaur Crochet Pattern

Dinosaurs are so popular these days! My son just loves them, and his dino obsession is what gave me the inspiration for my latest design. Introducing my new free triceratops crochet pattern, Tanner the Triceratops!

Tanner is a beginner friendly dinosaur amigurumi. He is about 10″ tall when sitting down, and about 13″ tall when standing. Most pieces are worked in the round and then sewn together at the end, with a bit of embroidery for the nails. 

Tanner the Triceratops, the popular free triceratops crochet pattern


I hope you enjoy this free crochet pattern available here on my blog! An ad-free, formatted PDF version of this crochet pattern is also available for purchase here:


If you like this free pattern, you may be interested in my other amigurumi dinosaur patterns. You can find all of my dinosaur crochet patterns here.

Pin this pattern for later.

Add Tanner the Triceratops to your project queue and favorite this pattern on Ravelry here.

I would classify this crochet pattern as “advanced beginner”. It would be helpful to have had some experience with amigurumi before creating this project.

I used WeCrochet’s Brava Worsted yarn to make Tanner the Triceratops. You’ll also need a 4.0mm (G) crochet hook, tapestry needle/yarn needle, scissors, safety eyes (if desired), and poly-fil stuffing for this free triceratops crochet pattern. You can find all of these over on my Amazon page here

Free Crochet Pattern for Tanner the Triceratops

Pattern Specifics

Measurements: Approximately 8.5” tall (sitting) or 11.5” tall (standing)
Gauge: Not necessary for this pattern; see notes
Hook Size:  4.0mm (G) crochet hook
Other Tools: tapestry needle, stitch markers, scissors
Yarn Weight:  Medium (4), Worsted
Yarn Used:  WeCrochet/Knit Picks Brava Worsted
Yardage: color A (teal): 218 yds, color B (gray): 59 yds, color C (white): 4 yds
Other Materials:  poly-fil stuffing, 12mm safety eyes

Stitch Abbreviations

st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
SC = single crochet
SC2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease is recommended)
FSC = foundation single crochet

Special Stitches

SC2tog (using invisible decrease method): Insert hook into front loop of the first stitch. Insert hook into front loop of second stitch. Yarn over. Draw through the first two loops on hook. Yarn over. Draw through both loops on hook.

Notes

  • Checking your gauge is not required for this pattern. Use a hook that is smaller than the size recommended for your yarn weight. This will ensure that your stuffing will not show through the stitches.
  • All pieces, with the exception of the frill, are worked in the round. Use a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of each round.
  • Invisible decreases are recommended. Please see “Special Stitches”.
  • Safety eyes and noses pose a choking risk for babies; therefore, if making this toy for a baby, I recommend using yarn, felt, or embroidered details.
  • Body, head, legs, arms, horns, and tail require stuffing. Stuff as you work it to ensure each piece is completely filled. Do not add stuffing to the frill.
  • See tutorial photos.

Pattern

Using 4.0mm (G) crochet hook:

Body

Using color A (shown as teal):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R6: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (36 sts)

R7: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (42 sts)

R8: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 6 sts. Repeat from * around. (48 sts)

R9-16: 1 SC in each st around. (48 sts)

R17: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 6 sts. Repeat from * around. (42 sts)

R18: 1 SC in each st around. (42 sts)

R19: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (36 sts)

R20: 1 SC in each st around. (36 sts)

R21: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R22: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

R23: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R24: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts).

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Fill with stuffing.

Using color A (shown as teal):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R6-10: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

R11: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (36 sts)

R12: 1 SC in each st around. (36 sts)

R13: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (42 sts)

R14: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 6 sts. Repeat from * around. (48 sts)

R15: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * an additional 5 times. 1 SC in each of the next 24 sts around. (54 sts)

R16: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * an additional 5 times. 1 SC in each of the next 24 sts around. (60 sts)

R17: 1 SC in each of the next 32 sts around. Add a st marker to the last worked st. 1 SC in each of the next 28 sts around. (60 sts)

The added st marker, and the st marker at the beginning of this round helps to indicate the front of the face. The 28 sts between the two st markers sit flat and indicate the bottom of the head. If using safety eyes, insert eyes between R14 and R15, with 14 sts between. Embroider around eyes for additional detail, if desired. You can now remove your second st marker. See tutorial photos.

R18-19: 1 SC in each st around. (60 sts)

R20: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 8 sts. Repeat from * around. (54 sts)

R21: * SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 7 sts. Repeat from * around. (48 sts)

R22: 1 SC in each st around. (48 sts)

R23: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 6 sts. Repeat from * around. (42 sts)

R24: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (36 sts)

R25: 1 SC in each st around. (36 sts)

R26: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R27: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R28: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R29: *SC2tog, 1 SC in the next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R30: *SC2tog. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

Cut yarn, weave yarn in and out of remaining sts. Pull tight to close. Weave in ends.

Small Horn

Using color A (shown as teal):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 1 SC in each st around. (6 sts)

R3: 2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat around. (9 sts)

R4: 1 SC in each st around. (9 sts)

R5: 2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat around. (12 sts)

R6: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

Leave long tail for sewing. Fasten off.

Fill with stuffing.

Large Horns (make 2)

Using color A (shown as teal):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 1 SC in each st around. (6 sts)

R3: 2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat around. (9 sts)

R4: 1 SC in each st around. (9 sts)

R5: 2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat around. (12 sts)

R6-9: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

Leave long tail for sewing. Fasten off.

Fill with stuffing.

Frill Front

This video is also available on YouTube. Watch this video: Frill for Tanner the Triceratops Crochet Tutorial on YouTube.

NOTE: When working the frill, be sure to complete the entire repeat. The repeat both starts and ends with 2SC. Therefore, when working the full sequence of stitches, followed by the same sequence of stitches, the row will look something like this like this: (2SC, 1SC, 1SC, 1SC, 2SC), (2SC, 1SC, 1SC, 1SC, 2SC), (2SC, 1 SC, 1 SC, 1SC, 2 SC), and so on.

*** NOTE: The foundation single crochet stitch is preferred; however, you could alternatively replace R1 with: Ch 31, SC in second ch from hook and each ch to end. (30 sts), and then proceed as written with R2.

Using color B (shown as gray):

R1: 30 FSC***. (30 sts)

R2: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (42 sts)

R3: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (54 sts)

R4: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 7 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (66 sts)

R5: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (78 sts)

R6: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 11 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (90 sts)

Fasten off.

Frill Back

Using color A (shown as teal):

R1: 30 FSC. (30 sts)

R2: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (42 sts)

R3: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (54 sts)

R4: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 7 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (66 sts)

R5: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (78 sts)

R6: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 11 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (90 sts)

R7: Ch 1, turn. Hold the Frill Front against the Frill Back. Working through each layer, SC around the entire Frill to beginning, working 1 SC in each st, and 3 SC when rounding each of the four corners. See tutorial photos.

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Legs (make 2)

Using color B (shown as gray):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R6: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (36 sts)

Using color A (shown as teal):

R7-8: 1 SC in each st around. (36 sts)

R9: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R10: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

R11: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R12: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (20 sts)

R13-20: 1 SC in each st around. (20 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R21: Fold the leg closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (9 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing.

Arms (make 2)

Using color B (shown as gray):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

Using color A (shown as teal):

R6-7: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)

R8: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R9: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R10: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R11-18: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R19: Fold the arm closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (8 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing.

Tail

Using color A (shown as teal):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 1 SC in each st around. (6 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)

R4: 1 SC in each st around. (9 sts)

R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R6-7: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R8: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (15 sts)

R9: 1 SC in each st around. (15 sts)

R10: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R11-12: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R13: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R14-15: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Fill with stuffing.

Assembly & Finishing

See tutorial photos.

Attach small horn over R6-9, on the top middle of snout. Attach large horns between R17-21 on the top of the head.

Attach frill around the head, directly behind the large horns, at approximately R22.

Attach head to body so that the frill is upright, in line with the body, and the nose is facing straight out; attaching body to approximately R14-19 of the bottom of the head.

Attach legs over R7-8 of body, with 4 sts showing between.

Embroider 3 nails on each leg, over R6-8, leaving about 2 sts between each nail.

Attach arms over R16-23 on each side of the body. At the top of the arms, leave approximately 12 sts between each arm across the front of the body. At the bottom of the arms, leave approximately 18 sts between each arm across the front of the body.

Embroider 3 nails on each arm, over R5-6, leaving about 2 sts between each nail.

Attach tail over R6-13, on the back of the body.

Ad-Free PDF Pattern for Tanner the Triceratops

We Crochet / Knit Picks Brava Worsted

Tips & Tricks

  • While sewing the pieces of this free triceratops crochet pattern, hold your pieces in place with pins so that they don’t move around.
  • Prevent your triceratops amigurumi from having a floppy head with extra stuffing. Check out this post on amigurumi head wobble.
  • These amigurumi tips and tricks are a great reference!

Alterations

  • Make a strawberry triceratops crochet pattern using this free pattern modification for Strawberry Tanner the Triceratops!
  • To create a larger amigurumi dinosaur with this free triceratops crochet pattern, use a plush yarn and suitable hook size, then follow the pattern as written.
  • For a smaller triceratops amigurumi, check out the free crochet pattern for Mini Tanner the Triceratops.

More Free Dinosaur Crochet Patterns

I hope you enjoyed this free triceratops crochet pattern! If you love dinosaurs and want to see more free dinosaur crochet patterns, check out my other dinosaur amigurumi patterns!


I hope you enjoyed this pattern! If you make it, leave me a comment below.

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I’d love to see what you make with this tutorial! Don’t forget to share your finished work with me: on social media by tagging me @thenicolechase, in your Ravelry projects, or post over in my Facebook group!

Thanks for stopping by! Happy crafting!

Nicole

PATTERN COPYRIGHT © 2024 NICOLE CHASE. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 
PATTERN MAY NOT BE ALTERED, COPIED, REDISTRIBUTED OR SOLD AS YOUR OWN PATTERN. 
YOU MAY SELL THE FINISHED PRODUCT ON A SMALL SCALE. PATTERN/DESIGN CREDIT GIVEN TO WWW.THENICOLECHASE.COM IS APPRECIATED. PERMISSION TO SELL DOES NOT INCLUDE MASS PRODUCTION. LARGE SCALE PRODUCTION IS PROHIBITED.

PHOTOGRAPHY COPYRIGHT © 2024 NICOLE CHASE. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 
PHOTOS MAY NOT BE ALTERED, COPIED, REDISTRIBUTED OR SOLD AS YOUR OWN.

218 Comments

  1. I’m currently on R15 of the head & im getting a bit confused. When the pattern says repeat from * an additional 5 times, does that mean an extra five rows needs to be crocheted? Also, should there be 24 stitches left to complete the row to add up to 54 stitches? Thanks

    1. Hello! No, it is just one round. You will repeat the 2 SC and 1 SC x3 an additional 5 times. So it will be 2, 1, 1, 1, 2, 1, 1, 1, 2, 1, 1, 1, 2, 1, 1, 1, 2, 1, 1, 1, 2, 1, 1, 1, and then you will do 1 SC in the remaining 24 sts. Hope that helps!

  2. Good Morning Nicole I’m making your Strawberry Triceratop dinosaur for my granddaughter. I want to embroider the eyes because my daughter has a baby on the way do I do it after putting it together or before stuffing the head? Thank You Li

    1. Hi! I’m not sure what you’re meaning by flat, but R9 through R16 are just 1 SC around, so there won’t be any increases or decreases in that round. Hope that helps!

      1. Tysm! Also one really quick question, when you say “1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around”, does it mean do 2SC? Sorry for the miscommunication.

        1. Okay, I see what you mean now. Yes, the increasing rounds will basically just create a flat circle, and then the rounds of 1 SC is where it will begin to round out and get taller.

  3. Great pattern! I used yarn that I already had, embroidered the eyes (because it’s for a baby) and didn’t add the nails (i didn’t have time haha), and it turned out so pretty! Loved it! Thanks you so much!

    1. Thanks for the quick response!!! Another question: when changing from color B to color A, for the legs, do I join with a sl st?

        1. I’m almost done. I’ve enjoyed this journey. I have handled the heck out of my triceratops. Can I wash it? Dry it?

  4. thank you for your hard work designing the above toy pattern
    the pictures are so helpful when you are making a toy
    the placement of the head is so important as the other parts can look miss placed if the head is not sawn correctly
    i love making soft toys and the look on children’s faces when they see the toys i have for sale
    i screen copy a picture with the toys name with the website, then i laminate, if i sell a toy i always put the picture in the bag with the toy

  5. Hello! I love all of your patterns! I saw on your website that you had a Sunflower Modification for this pattern (or maybe I’m crazy) where could I find that? I couldn’t find it anywhere!

    1. Hi! Thank you! I don’t have a sunflower modification. I have seen a few people do that, but I haven’t written anything for it. 🙂

  6. Hi! Starting off, immediately after the magic ring when you say “2 sc in each st around”, is that basically equivalent to an increase stitch (inc)? Sorry i am new to crotchet and only know a limited number of terms so i want to be sure i am doing the right stitch if it is the same! ????

    1. Hello! Yes, that is correct. 🙂 It is just another way to refer to increase for SC. Hope you enjoy the pattern!

  7. Hi, I am confused on working on the frills. Are we supposed to start the 2SC into the chain stitch or after the chain on R2? Thanks!

    1. Hello! R1 is a FSC, not a chain. Unless you’re referring to the ch at the beginning of R2, which does not count as a stitch and you should work your 2 SC into the first SC st of R1. Feel free to reach out if you have any other questions. Thanks!

      1. NIcole,

        I have done the start of the frills 3 different times now and my 2nd row is not adding up to 42 stitches I only get 37 with 1 stitch remaining which I think I would have to put 2sc in it to keep with the note you posted about. That still doesn’t add up. Please help!!!

        1. It sounds like you aren’t doing the entire repeat. It is 2,1,1,1,2,2,1,1,1,2,2,1,1,1,2, and so on. Note that the 2 and 2 are right next to each other when repeating the sequence. Hope that helps!

  8. If I wanted to make this bigger, is there a pattern for that or an idea? Or would I just use thicker yarn? I’m almost done with my first one and I absolutely love it but would love to make a bigger one.

    1. Hello! This is the larger of my two Tanner patterns. If you wanted to make it even larger, you could use a thicker yarn, paired with a comparable larger hook, and just follow the pattern as written. Hope that helps!

  9. Hi Nicole! I have already made Tanner once but I made the strawberry version. Im amusing the original this time and am kinda confused about the small horn. How many rows do I do for the small one?

    1. Hi Abby! The small horn has a total of 6 rounds and the larger horns have a total of 9 rounds. Notice that the large horns show R6-9, where the small horns stop at R6. Hope that helps!

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