Hug Me Triceratops Lovey – Free Crochet Pattern

With my popular dinosaur pattern collection, I knew that I had to add a dinosaur lovey to that list. Loveys are one of my favorite things to make. I love crocheted blankets but I don’t like the repetition of them. Loveys allow me to do a bit of blanket making, without getting bored.

I would classify this crochet dinosaur lovey as “advanced beginner”. It would be helpful to have had some experience with amigurumi before creating this project.

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Free Crochet Pattern for Hug Me Triceratops Lovey

Abbreviations

st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
ch = chain
SC = single crochet
SC2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease is recommended)
FSC = foundation single crochet
DC = double crochet

Special Stitches

SC2tog (using invisible decrease method): Insert hook into front loop of the first stitch. Insert hook into front loop of second stitch. Yarn over. Draw through the first two loops on hook. Yarn over. Draw through both loops on hook.

Notes

• Checking your gauge is not required for this pattern. Use a hook that is smaller than the size recommended for your yarn weight. This will ensure that your stuffing will not show through the stitches.
• All pieces of triceratops are worked in the round. Use a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of each round.
• Invisible decreases are recommended. Please see “Special Stitches”.
• Safety eyes and noses pose a choking risk for babies; therefore, if making this toy for a baby, I recommend using yarn, felt, or embroidered details.
• Head, horns, and arms require stuffing. Stuff each piece as you work to ensure the piece is completely filled. Do not add stuffing to the frill.
• Chain 3 at the beginning of each round of the blanket does count as a stitch (unless otherwise specified).
• See tutorial photos.

Pattern

Using 4.0mm (G) hook:

Head

Using color A (shown as yellow):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4-6: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R7: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (21 sts)

R8: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (24 sts)

R9: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (27 sts)

R10: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (30 sts)

R11: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. Add a st marker to the last worked st. **2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from ** an additional 2 times. (36 sts)

The added st marker, and the st marker at the beginning of this round helps to indicate the front sides of the face. The first sequence of sts between the first and second st markers indicates the top of the head. The second sequence of sts between the second and first st markers indicates the bottom of the head. If using safety eyes, insert eyes between R8 and R9, with 7 sts between. You can now remove your second st marker. See tutorial photos.

R12-15: 1 SC in each st around. (36 sts)

R16: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R17: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R18: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R19: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R20: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

Fill head with stuffing.

R21: *SC2tog. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

Cut yarn, weave yarn in and out of remaining sts. Pull tight to close. Tie off and weave in ends.

Small Horn

Using color A (shown as yellow):

R1: Begin with 4 SC in a magic ring. (4 sts)

R2: 1 SC in each st around. (4 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Large Horns (make 2)

Using color A (shown as yellow):

R1: Begin with 4 SC in a magic ring. (4 sts)

R2: 1 SC in each st around. (4 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

R4-5: 1 SC in each st around. (6 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Frill Front

NOTE: When working the frill, be sure to complete the entire repeat. The repeat both starts and ends with 2SC. Therefore, when working the full sequence of stitches, followed by the same sequence of stitches, the row will look something like this: (2SC, 1SC, 2SC), (2SC, 1SC, 2SC), (2SC, 1SC, 2 SC), and so on.

*** NOTE: The foundation single crochet stitch is preferred; however, you could alternatively replace R1 with: Ch 19, SC in second ch from hook and each ch to end. (18 sts), and then proceed as written with R2.

Using color B (shown as light yellow):

R1: 18 FSC. (18 sts)

R2: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (30 sts)

R3: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (42 sts)

Cut yarn and fasten off.

Frill Back

Using color A (shown as yellow):

R1: 18 FSC. (18 sts)

R2: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (30 sts)

R3: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (42 sts)

R4: Ch 1, turn. Hold the Frill Front against the Frill Back. Working through each layer, SC around the entire Frill to beginning, working 1 SC in each st, and 3 SC when rounding each of the four corners. See tutorial photos.

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Arms (make 2)

Using color B (shown as light yellow):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

Using color A (shown as yellow):

R4-5: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R6: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R7-13: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R14: Fold the arm closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (5 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Blanket

Using 5.0mm (H) hook:

Using color C (shown as speckle):

Ch 6, join with a sl st to form a ring.

R1: Working in the ring, ch 3 (counts as DC), 2 DC, [ch 2, 3 DC] 3 times, ch 2. Join with a sl st to top of ch 3. (12 DC sts and 4 corner ch-2 spaces)

R2: Ch 3 (counts as DC), DC in next 2 sts to first ch-2 space, *[2 DC, ch 2, 2 DC] in ch-2 space (corner made), DC in each st to next ch-2 space**; rep from * to ** 3 times, [2 DC, ch 2, 2 DC] in ch-2 space (corner made). Join with a sl st to top of ch 3. (28 DC sts and 4 corner ch-2 spaces)

R3: Ch 3 (counts as DC), DC in each st to first ch-2 space, *[2 DC, ch 2, 2 DC] in ch-2 space (corner made), DC in each st to next ch-2 space**; rep from * to ** 3 times, [2 DC, ch 2, 2 DC] in ch-2 space (corner made), DC in each st to beginning. Join with a sl st to top of ch 3. (44 DC sts and 4 corner ch-2 spaces)

R4-8: Repeat R3.

Using color A (shown as yellow):

R9: Repeat R3.

Using color C (shown as speckle):

R10: Repeat R3.

Using color B (shown as light yellow):

R11: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), SC in same st, SC in each st to first ch-2 space, *[2 SC, ch 1, 2 SC] in ch-2 space (corner made), SC in each st to next ch-2 space**; rep from * to ** 3 times, [2 SC, ch 1, 2 SC] in ch-2 space (corner made), SC in each st to beginning. Join with a sl st to top of first SC.

Cut yarn and fasten off. Weave in ends.

Assembly & Finishing

See tutorial photos.

Attach small horn over R4-5, on the top middle of snout. Attach large horns between R12-14, on the top of the head.

Attach frill around the head, directly behind the large horns, at approximately R15.

With the blanket placed in a diamond position (rather than square), use a strand of color A (yellow) to attach the head to the middle of the blanket with the front of the face pointing towards one of the blanket corners. Be sure to sew to top loops of blanket only to ensure a clean look on the underside of the blanket.

Attach arms where the head and blanket meet, on each side of the head. Have the arms angled towards the front.

Embroider 3 nails on each arm, over R3-4, leaving about 2 sts between each nail.

I hope you enjoyed this free dinosaur lovey crochet pattern!

Ad-Free PDF Pattern for Hug Me Triceratops Lovey

Tips & Tricks

• When sewing the dinosaur to your crochet dinosaur lovey blanket, use pins to hold the pieces in place to ensure the placement stays where you’d like.
• When working in continuous amigurumi rounds, like when making this crochet dinosaur lovey, use stitch markers to indicate the beginning of each round.
• Check out my list of amigurumi tips and tricks for more ideas on how to improve your crochet amigurumi projects.

Alterations

• To make this triceratops lovey crochet pattern larger, use a plush yarn like Parfait Chunky and a comparable hook size.
• To make the blanket of your crochet dinosaur lovey larger, add additional repeats of R3 to your desired size.

More Free Dinosaur Crochet Patterns

If you’ve enjoyed this pattern, you may also enjoy my other dinosaur crochet patterns. Be sure to check out my full collection of dinosaur crochet patterns, as well as my other lovey patterns like the Hug Me Elephant Lovey or Hug Me Bunny Lovey.