Hug Me Triceratops Lovey – Free Crochet Pattern

ByNicole Chase Updated on

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My dinosaur crochet pattern collection has always been a favorite among readers, so I knew a free triceratops lovey crochet pattern had to be next. Loveys are the perfect project for when you want the coziness of a handmade blanket without the weeks of repetitive stitching.

When designing the Hug Me Triceratops Lovey, I focused on creating a seamless blend between a plush amigurumi toy and a classic security blanket. I designed this pattern in worsted weight acrylic yarn to ensure it’s durable enough to last through the toddler years, but it works up very well in other yarns too! Whether you are looking for a baby shower or first birthday gift, this prehistoric pal is a crowd pleaser!

Close-up of the Hug Me Triceratops Lovey showing the textured crochet stitches and variegated orange and yellow yarn. The amigurumi dinosaur head is centered on a handmade security blanket, highlighting the detailed frill.

I would classify this free triceratops lovey crochet pattern as “advanced beginner”. It would be helpful to have had some experience with amigurumi before creating this project.

I hope you enjoy this free crochet pattern available here on my blog! An ad-free, formatted PDF version of this crochet pattern is also available for purchase here:

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Love this design? Pin it to your crochet board for later.

Add this crochet triceratops dinosaur lovey to your project queue on Ravelry.

Close-up of the yellow triceratops lovey crochet pattern head, showing the detail of the frill and white claw tips. This is a free dinosaur lovey security blanket pattern.

Free Crochet Pattern for Hug Me Triceratops Lovey

Pattern Specifics

Measurements: Blanket measures approximately 12” square; triceratops head is approximately 4” tall with 5” arm span
Gauge: Not necessary for this pattern; see notes
Hook Size: 4.0mm (G) crochet hook, 5.0mm (H) crochet hook
Other Tools: tapestry needle, stitch markers, scissors
Yarn Weight: Medium (4) Worsted Weight
Yarn Used: WeCrochet/Knit Picks Brava Worsted
Yardage: color A (yellow): 62 yds, color B (light yellow): 22 yds, color C (speckles): 92 yds
Other Materials: poly-fil stuffing, 9mm safety eyes

Abbreviations

st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
ch = chain
SC = single crochet
SC2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease is recommended)
FSC = foundation single crochet
DC = double crochet

Special Stitches

SC2tog (using invisible decrease method): Insert hook into front loop of the first stitch. Insert hook into front loop of second stitch. Yarn over. Draw through the first two loops on hook. Yarn over. Draw through both loops on hook.

Notes

  • Checking your gauge is not required for this pattern. Use a hook that is smaller than the size recommended for your yarn weight. This will ensure that your stuffing will not show through the stitches.
  • All pieces of triceratops are worked in the round. Use a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of each round.
  • Invisible decreases are recommended. Please see “Special Stitches”.
  • Safety eyes and noses pose a choking risk for babies; therefore, if making this toy for a baby, I recommend using yarn, felt, or embroidered details.
  • Head, horns, and arms require stuffing. Stuff each piece as you work to ensure the piece is completely filled. Do not add stuffing to the frill.
  • Chain 3 at the beginning of each round of the blanket does count as a stitch (unless otherwise specified).
  • See tutorial photos.

Pattern

Using 4.0mm (G) hook:

Using color A (shown as yellow):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R4-6: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R7: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (21 sts)

R8: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (24 sts)

R9: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (27 sts)

R10: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts around. (30 sts)

R11: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * an additional 2 times. Add a st marker to the last worked st. **2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from ** an additional 2 times. (36 sts)

The added st marker, and the st marker at the beginning of this round helps to indicate the front sides of the face. The first sequence of sts between the first and second st markers indicates the top of the head. The second sequence of sts between the second and first st markers indicates the bottom of the head. If using safety eyes, insert eyes between R8 and R9, with 7 sts between. You can now remove your second st marker. See tutorial photos.

R12-15: 1 SC in each st around. (36 sts)

R16: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)

R17: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)

R18: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)

R19: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

R20: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

Fill head with stuffing.

R21: *SC2tog. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

Cut yarn, weave yarn in and out of remaining sts. Pull tight to close. Tie off and weave in ends.

The finished head of the triceratops for this dinosaur lovey, made in yellow yarn. The head is filled with stuffing and ready for assembly.

Small Horn

Using color A (shown as yellow):

R1: Begin with 4 SC in a magic ring. (4 sts)

R2: 1 SC in each st around. (4 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Large Horns (make 2)

Using color A (shown as yellow):

R1: Begin with 4 SC in a magic ring. (4 sts)

R2: 1 SC in each st around. (4 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)

R4-5: 1 SC in each st around. (6 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

The finished crochet horns for the triceratops. The horns are ready for assembly.

Frill Front

NOTE: When working the frill, be sure to complete the entire repeat. The repeat both starts and ends with 2SC. Therefore, when working the full sequence of stitches, followed by the same sequence of stitches, the row will look something like this: (2SC, 1SC, 2SC), (2SC, 1SC, 2SC), (2SC, 1SC, 2 SC), and so on.

*** NOTE: The foundation single crochet stitch is preferred; however, you could alternatively replace R1 with: Ch 19, SC in second ch from hook and each ch to end. (18 sts), and then proceed as written with R2.

Using color B (shown as light yellow):

R1: 18 FSC. (18 sts)

R2: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (30 sts)

R3: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (42 sts)

Cut yarn and fasten off.

Frill Back

Using color A (shown as yellow):

R1: 18 FSC. (18 sts)

R2: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (30 sts)

R3: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (42 sts)

R4: Ch 1, turn. Hold the Frill Front against the Frill Back. Working through each layer, SC around the entire Frill to beginning, working 1 SC in each st, and 3 SC when rounding each of the four corners. See tutorial photos.

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

The completed triceratops frill for this free dinosaur lovey crochet pattern made in a light yellow yarn with a darker yellow edging.

Arms (make 2)

Using color B (shown as light yellow):

R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)

Using color A (shown as yellow):

R4-5: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)

R6: *SC2tog, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)

R7-13: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)

Fill with stuffing.

R14: Fold the arm closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (5 sts)

leg piece, filled with stuffing, prior to the leg being closed
leg piece with hook inserted through both sides to crochet them together
leg piece closed nearly all the way with single crochet stitches
leg piece closed nearly all the way with single crochet stitches, with hook through both sides of the next st
finished leg piece prior to fastening off
finished leg piece with long tail for sewing
*Note: These tutorial photos are only to demonstrate the technique of crocheting the piece closed; project size and colors shown may differ from the current pattern.

Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.

Two finished crochet arms for the crochet triceratops made in shades of yellow. The arms are filled with stuffing and ready for assembly.

Blanket

Using 5.0mm (H) hook:

Using color C (shown as speckle):

Ch 6, join with a sl st to form a ring.

A small crochet chain of stitches for the start of the blanket portion of the lovey pattern.
The chain stitches have been joined at the ends to form a small circle.

R1: Working in the ring, ch 3 (counts as DC), 2 DC, [ch 2, 3 DC] 3 times, ch 2. Join with a sl st to top of ch 3. (12 DC sts and 4 corner ch-2 spaces)

The first chain of 3 stitches of R1 of the blanket piece of the lovey.
The first 2 double crochet stitches of the blanket have been completed.
The ch 2 between the first set of stitches has been crocheted.
The next sect of double crochet stitches has been completed, and the piece now has one finished corner.
The next chain 2, which will become the next corner, has been crocheted.
The next set of double crochet stitches has been completed and the second corner is now shaped.
The next chain 2 has been completed, which will become the third corner.
The next set of double crochet stitches has been made, and the third corner has now taken shape.
The final chain 2, which will become the fourth corner of the square, has been completed.
The chain 2 has been joined to the beginning, and the piece is now a small square.

R2: Ch 3 (counts as DC), DC in next 2 sts to first ch-2 space, *[2 DC, ch 2, 2 DC] in ch-2 space (corner made), DC in each st to next ch-2 space**; rep from * to ** 3 times, [2 DC, ch 2, 2 DC] in ch-2 space (corner made). Join with a sl st to top of ch 3. (28 DC sts and 4 corner ch-2 spaces)

R2 has started with a chain 3, which counts as a double crochet stitch.
R2 is continuing with the first 2 double crochets of the round being completed across the row.
Now working into the chain 2 space, which is the corner, 2 double crochets have been made.
A chain 2 has been made, to recreate the corner.
The next 2 double crochets have been made in the same chain 2 space as the previous, completing the new first corner of R2.
Double crochets continue along the next side.
The next corner of the blanket has been completed with 2 double crochet stitches, ch 2, and 2 more double crochet stitches.
Double crochet stitches continue along the side of the blanket.
The next corner of the blanket has been made.
The double crochet stitches continue along the final side of the blanket.
The final corner has been made.
The row is now complete after being joined with a sl st to the beginning.

R3: Ch 3 (counts as DC), DC in each st to first ch-2 space, *[2 DC, ch 2, 2 DC] in ch-2 space (corner made), DC in each st to next ch-2 space**; rep from * to ** 3 times, [2 DC, ch 2, 2 DC] in ch-2 space (corner made), DC in each st to beginning. Join with a sl st to top of ch 3. (44 DC sts and 4 corner ch-2 spaces)

R3 is beginning with a chain 3 which counts as a double crochet stitch.
Double crochets have been completed along the side of the piece.
The first corner has been made with the 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc corner sequence.
Double crochet stitches continue along the second side of the piece.
The second corner has been made.
Double crochet stitches continue along the side of the blanket piece.
The third corner of the blanket has been completed.
Double crochets continue along the side of the blanket piece.
The fourth corner of the crochet blanket has been completed.
The final double crochets of the round have been made.
The last stitch has been joined to the beginning with a slip stitch, completed R3.

R4-8: Repeat R3.

The crochet blanket piece of the baby lovey after the completion of R8.

Using color A (shown as yellow):

R9: Repeat R3.

The crochet blanket piece of the baby lovey after the completion of R9.

Using color C (shown as speckle):

R10: Repeat R3.

The crochet blanket piece of the baby lovey after the completion of R10.

Using color B (shown as light yellow):

R11: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), SC in same st, SC in each st to first ch-2 space, *[2 SC, ch 1, 2 SC] in ch-2 space (corner made), SC in each st to next ch-2 space**; rep from * to ** 3 times, [2 SC, ch 1, 2 SC] in ch-2 space (corner made), SC in each st to beginning. Join with a sl st to top of first SC.

The crochet blanket piece of the baby lovey after the completion of R11, which is the single crochet border of the blanket.

Cut yarn and fasten off. Weave in ends.

The ends have been weaved in and the crochet lovey blanket has been completed.

Assembly & Finishing

See tutorial photos.

Attach small horn over R4-5, on the top middle of snout. Attach large horns between R12-14, on the top of the head.

Attach frill around the head, directly behind the large horns, at approximately R15.

A front view of the crochet triceratops head for the lovey crochet pattern showing the frill completely sewn on.

With the blanket placed in a diamond position (rather than square), use a strand of color A (yellow) to attach the head to the middle of the blanket with the front of the face pointing towards one of the blanket corners. Be sure to sew to top loops of blanket only to ensure a clean look on the underside of the blanket.

The head of the triceratops has been pinned into place in the center of the lovey blanket.
The amigurumi triceratops head has been sewn into place in the center of the blanket lovey, a side view.
A top down view of the triceratops head sewn into place in the middle of the lovey blanket.
A view of the sewn on amigurumi triceratops head to the blanket, with the blanket ruffled below the head.

Attach arms where the head and blanket meet, on each side of the head. Have the arms angled towards the front.

The arms of the crochet triceratops have been pinned into place on each side of the head.
The crochet arms for the triceratops lovey have been sewn into place on each side of the head, a side view.
A crochet triceratops lovey shown from above, showing that the crochet arms have been sewn into place.
Another view of the placement of the crochet triceratops arms, after it has been attached to the blanket.

Embroider 3 nails on each arm, over R3-4, leaving about 2 sts between each nail.

A close up view of the white nails on the arms of the triceratops lovey have been embroidered.
A top down view of the triceratops lovey, with a close up of the head, showing the nails that have been embroidered on.

Overhead view of a crochet triceratops lovey showing the amigurumi dinosaur head and front arms attached to a crochet blanket that has been folded into a diamond shape. The yellow variegated yarn creates a sunburst effect.

I hope you enjoyed making this Hug Me Triceratops Lovey crochet pattern! There is nothing quite like seeing a handmade dinosaur security blanket come to life.

A Pinterest pin graphic for a free crochet pattern titled "Hug Me Triceratops Lovey". The image features a collage of three photos of a yellow crochet dinosaur security blanket on a white fur background, with a bright yellow text overlay and the website address.
Brava yarn by Crochet.com

Ad-Free PDF Pattern for Hug Me Triceratops Lovey

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Etsy

Tips for a Professional Finish on Your Dinosaur Lovey

  • Secure Sewing for Safety: When attaching amigurumi to lovey blankets, use pines to secure the pieces before you start sewing. This prevents the pieces from shifting, which is crucial for ensuring the pieces are sewn on properly.
  • Keeping Count: Since the crochet dinosaur lovey pattern is worked in continuous rounds, it is easy to lose your place. I recommend using a stitch marker to keep track of the first stitch of every round to ensure your count remains accurate.
  • Embroidered Details: If you are making this dinosaur lovey for a baby or young toddler, replace the safety eyes with embroidered eyes.

Want to take your skills further? Check out my comprehensive guide to amigurumi tips and tricks for more techniques to level up your handmade projects.

Customize Your Dinosaur Lovey

One of the best things about this pattern is how easily it can be customized to fit your nursery theme or yarn stash.

  • Upsize with Plush Yarn: For a jumbo, extra-snuggly version, you can swap the worsted weight yarn for a plush yarn like Parfait Chunky. While using a different weight of yarn, be sure to switch to an appropriately sized hook to best suit that yarn.
  • Adjusting the Blanket Size: If you prefer a larger security blanket, simply continue repeating Round 3 of the blanket portion until you reach your desired dimensions. Keep in mind that a larger blanket will require additional yardage!
  • Color Inspiration: While I chose sunny yellows for this triceratops lovey, it would look fantastic in classic dino greens, or even soft pastels for a more modern nursery feel.
A close-up of the amigurumi triceratops head and arms in the center of the lovey blanket. The crochet triceratops is made in a bright yellow yarn, with white embroidered nails, and the blanket is made in a speckled yellow yarn.

Expand Your Prehistoric Collection

If you’ve enjoyed making the Hug Me Triceratops Lovey, you’ll love the rest of my free dinosaur crochet patterns! From full-sized amigurumi to smaller ones as well, you can build an entire prehistoric nursery with my growing collection.

Looking for more snuggly security blankets? Don’t miss my full library of crochet lovey patterns, including favorites like the Hug Me Elephant Lovey or Hug Me Bunny Lovey.

I hope you enjoyed this pattern! If you make it, leave me a comment below.

Want to see more from me? Be sure to subscribe to my email newsletter so that you never miss a pattern!

Follow along with me on Instagram for daily updates and a behind the scenes look at my designs.

I’d love to see what you make with this tutorial! Don’t forget to share your finished work with me: on social media by tagging me @thenicolechase, in your Ravelry projects, or post over in my Facebook group!

Thanks for stopping by! Happy crafting!

Nicole

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PATTERN MAY NOT BE ALTERED, COPIED, REDISTRIBUTED OR SOLD AS YOUR OWN PATTERN. 
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7 Comments

  2. When doing the arms, the pattern calls for leaving them open and finishing it off, but the pictures show stitching the top closed like in the Dino toy pattern. Which should it be?

    Reply

  3. Am I doing something incorrectly for the frill? For the second row I end up with 27 stitches instead of 30? Thank you!

    Reply

    1. Hello! Make sure that you are doing the entire repeat, which both starts and ends with 2 SC. So you will have 2 and 2 right next to each other. It will look like this: (2,1,2)(2,1,2)(2,1,2), and so on. Also, be sure that R1 definitely has 18 sts. If your count is off at all, R2 won’t add up. Hope that helps!

      Reply

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