Tanner the Triceratops – Free Dinosaur Crochet Pattern
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Dinosaurs are so popular these days, and my son’s dino obsession is what inspired this adorable crochet triceratops design: Tanner the Triceratops! This free triceratops crochet pattern is perfect for beginners and experienced crocheters alike!
This beginner friendly crochet dinosaur amigurumi is about 10″ tall while sitting and 13″ tall while standing when worked up in a similar yarn and hook to what I’ve used here. Most of the pieces of this free triceratops crochet pattern are worked in the round and then the pieces are sewn together. Tanner the Triceratops also includes a bit of embroidery for the nails.
Table of Contents
I hope you enjoy this free crochet pattern available here on my blog! An ad-free, formatted PDF version of this crochet pattern is also available for purchase here:
If you like this free triceratops crochet pattern, you may be interested in my full collection of amigurumi crochet dinosaur patterns. You can find all of my dinosaur crochet patterns here.
Pin this crochet triceratops pattern for later.
Add Tanner the Triceratops crochet pattern to your project queue and favorite this pattern on Ravelry here.
I would classify this crochet pattern as “advanced beginner”. It would be helpful to have had some experience with amigurumi before creating this project.
I used WeCrochet’s Brava Worsted yarn to make Tanner the Triceratops, but I’ve seen so many people make this free dinosaur crochet pattern in a variety of different yarns and he always turns out great!
Free Crochet Pattern for Tanner the Triceratops
Pattern Specifics
Measurements: Approximately 8.5” tall (sitting) or 11.5” tall (standing)
Gauge: Not necessary for this pattern; see notes
Hook Size: 4.0mm (G) crochet hook
Other Tools: tapestry needle, stitch markers, scissors
Yarn Weight: Medium (4), Worsted
Yarn Used: WeCrochet/Knit Picks Brava Worsted
Yardage: color A (teal): 218 yds, color B (gray): 59 yds, color C (white): 4 yds
Other Materials: poly-fil stuffing, 12mm safety eyes
Stitch Abbreviations
st = stitch
sl st = slip stitch
SC = single crochet
SC2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease is recommended)
FSC = foundation single crochet
Special Stitches
SC2tog (using invisible decrease method): Insert hook into front loop of the first stitch. Insert hook into front loop of second stitch. Yarn over. Draw through the first two loops on hook. Yarn over. Draw through both loops on hook.
Notes
- Checking your gauge is not required for this pattern. Use a hook that is smaller than the size recommended for your yarn weight. This will ensure that your stuffing will not show through the stitches.
- All pieces, with the exception of the frill, are worked in the round. Use a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of each round.
- Invisible decreases are recommended. Please see “Special Stitches”.
- Safety eyes and noses pose a choking risk for babies; therefore, if making this toy for a baby, I recommend using yarn, felt, or embroidered details.
- Body, head, legs, arms, horns, and tail require stuffing. Stuff as you work it to ensure each piece is completely filled. Do not add stuffing to the frill.
- See tutorial photos.
Pattern
Using 4.0mm (G) crochet hook:
Body
Using color A (shown as teal):
R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)
R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)
R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)
R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)
R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)
R6: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (36 sts)
R7: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (42 sts)
R8: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 6 sts. Repeat from * around. (48 sts)
R9-16: 1 SC in each st around. (48 sts)
R17: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 6 sts. Repeat from * around. (42 sts)
R18: 1 SC in each st around. (42 sts)
R19: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (36 sts)
R20: 1 SC in each st around. (36 sts)
R21: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)
R22: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)
R23: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)
R24: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts).
Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.
Fill with stuffing.
Head
Using color A (shown as teal):
R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)
R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)
R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)
R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)
R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)
R6-10: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)
R11: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (36 sts)
R12: 1 SC in each st around. (36 sts)
R13: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (42 sts)
R14: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 6 sts. Repeat from * around. (48 sts)
R15: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * an additional 5 times. 1 SC in each of the next 24 sts around. (54 sts)
R16: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * an additional 5 times. 1 SC in each of the next 24 sts around. (60 sts)
R17: 1 SC in each of the next 32 sts around. Add a st marker to the last worked st. 1 SC in each of the next 28 sts around. (60 sts)
The added st marker, and the st marker at the beginning of this round helps to indicate the front of the face. The 28 sts between the two st markers sit flat and indicate the bottom of the head. If using safety eyes, insert eyes between R14 and R15, with 14 sts between. Embroider around eyes for additional detail, if desired. You can now remove your second st marker. See tutorial photos.
R18-19: 1 SC in each st around. (60 sts)
R20: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 8 sts. Repeat from * around. (54 sts)
R21: * SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 7 sts. Repeat from * around. (48 sts)
R22: 1 SC in each st around. (48 sts)
R23: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 6 sts. Repeat from * around. (42 sts)
R24: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts. Repeat from * around. (36 sts)
R25: 1 SC in each st around. (36 sts)
R26: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)
R27: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)
R28: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)
Fill with stuffing.
R29: *SC2tog, 1 SC in the next st. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)
R30: *SC2tog. Repeat from * around. (6 sts)
Cut yarn, weave yarn in and out of remaining sts. Pull tight to close. Tie off and weave in ends.
Small Horn
Using color A (shown as teal):
R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)
R2: 1 SC in each st around. (6 sts)
R3: 2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat around. (9 sts)
R4: 1 SC in each st around. (9 sts)
R5: 2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat around. (12 sts)
R6: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)
Leave long tail for sewing. Fasten off.
Fill with stuffing.
Large Horns (make 2)
Using color A (shown as teal):
R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)
R2: 1 SC in each st around. (6 sts)
R3: 2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat around. (9 sts)
R4: 1 SC in each st around. (9 sts)
R5: 2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat around. (12 sts)
R6-9: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)
Leave long tail for sewing. Fasten off.
Fill with stuffing.
Frill Front
This video is also available on YouTube. Watch this video: Frill for Tanner the Triceratops Crochet Tutorial on YouTube.
NOTE: When working the frill, be sure to complete the entire repeat. The repeat both starts and ends with 2SC. Therefore, when working the full sequence of stitches, followed by the same sequence of stitches, the row will look something like this like this: (2SC, 1SC, 1SC, 1SC, 2SC), (2SC, 1SC, 1SC, 1SC, 2SC), (2SC, 1 SC, 1 SC, 1SC, 2 SC), and so on.
*** NOTE: The foundation single crochet stitch is preferred; however, you could alternatively replace R1 with: Ch 31, SC in second ch from hook and each ch to end. (30 sts), and then proceed as written with R2.
Using color B (shown as gray):
R1: 30 FSC***. (30 sts)
R2: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (42 sts)
R3: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (54 sts)
R4: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 7 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (66 sts)
R5: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (78 sts)
R6: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 11 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (90 sts)
Fasten off.
Frill Back
Using color A (shown as teal):
R1: 30 FSC. (30 sts)
R2: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (42 sts)
R3: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 5 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (54 sts)
R4: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 7 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (66 sts)
R5: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 9 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (78 sts)
R6: Ch 1, turn. *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 11 sts, 2 SC in next st. Repeat from * across. (90 sts)
R7: Ch 1, turn. Hold the Frill Front against the Frill Back. Working through each layer, SC around the entire Frill to beginning, working 1 SC in each st, and 3 SC when rounding each of the four corners. See tutorial photos.
Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.
Legs (make 2)
Using color B (shown as gray):
R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)
R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)
R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)
R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)
R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)
R6: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (36 sts)
Using color A (shown as teal):
R7-8: 1 SC in each st around. (36 sts)
R9: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)
R10: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)
R11: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)
R12: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (20 sts)
R13-20: 1 SC in each st around. (20 sts)
Fill with stuffing.
R21: Fold the leg closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (9 sts)
Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing.
Arms (make 2)
Using color B (shown as gray):
R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)
R2: 2 SC in each st around. (12 sts)
R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)
R4: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)
R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (30 sts)
Using color A (shown as teal):
R6-7: 1 SC in each st around. (30 sts)
R8: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)
R9: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)
R10: *SC2tog, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)
R11-18: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)
Fill with stuffing.
R19: Fold the arm closed. Working through both sides, 1 SC in each st across, leaving 1 unworked st on each side. See tutorial photos. (8 sts)
Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing.
Tail
Using color A (shown as teal):
R1: Begin with 6 SC in a magic ring. (6 sts)
R2: 1 SC in each st around. (6 sts)
R3: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in next st. Repeat from * around. (9 sts)
R4: 1 SC in each st around. (9 sts)
R5: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (12 sts)
R6-7: 1 SC in each st around. (12 sts)
R8: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 3 sts. Repeat from * around. (15 sts)
R9: 1 SC in each st around. (15 sts)
R10: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 4 sts. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)
R11-12: 1 SC in each st around. (18 sts)
R13: *2 SC in next st, 1 SC in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. (24 sts)
R14-15: 1 SC in each st around. (24 sts)
Cut yarn, leaving long strand for sewing. Fasten off.
Fill with stuffing.
Assembly & Finishing
See tutorial photos.
Attach small horn over R6-9, on the top middle of snout. Attach large horns between R17-21 on the top of the head.
Attach frill around the head, directly behind the large horns, at approximately R22.
Attach head to body so that the frill is upright, in line with the body, and the nose is facing straight out; attaching body to approximately R14-19 of the bottom of the head.
Attach legs over R7-8 of body, with 4 sts showing between.
Embroider 3 nails on each leg, over R6-8, leaving about 2 sts between each nail.
Attach arms over R16-23 on each side of the body. At the top of the arms, leave approximately 12 sts between each arm across the front of the body. At the bottom of the arms, leave approximately 18 sts between each arm across the front of the body.
Embroider 3 nails on each arm, over R5-6, leaving about 2 sts between each nail.
Attach tail over R6-13, on the back of the body.
I hope you enjoyed this free triceratops crochet pattern!
Ad-Free PDF Pattern for Tanner the Triceratops
Tips & Tricks
- While sewing the pieces of this free triceratops crochet pattern, hold your pieces in place with pins so that they don’t move around.
- If you are having trouble with the frill piece of this free triceratops crochet pattern, be sure to carefully review the notes section under the Frill Front heading.
- Prevent your triceratops amigurumi from having a floppy head with extra stuffing. Check out this post on amigurumi head wobble.
- These amigurumi tips and tricks are a great reference for more ways to improve your crochet triceratops!
Alterations
- Make a strawberry triceratops crochet pattern using this free pattern modification for Strawberry Tanner the Triceratops!
- To create a larger amigurumi dinosaur with this free triceratops crochet pattern, use a plush yarn and suitable hook size, then follow the pattern as written.
- For a smaller triceratops amigurumi, check out the mini version of this free triceratops crochet pattern: Mini Tanner the Triceratops.
More Free Dinosaur Crochet Patterns
I hope you enjoyed this free triceratops crochet pattern! If you love dinosaurs and want to crochet more of them, be sure to check out my full collection of free dinosaur crochet patterns. You may especially enjoy my ankylosaurus crochet pattern, or my parasaurolophus crochet pattern!
Start your own menagerie! This pattern is also part of my collection of free animal crochet patterns.
I hope you enjoyed this pattern! If you make it, leave me a comment below.
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I’d love to see what you make with this tutorial! Don’t forget to share your finished work with me: on social media by tagging me @thenicolechase, in your Ravelry projects, or post over in my Facebook group!
Thanks for stopping by! Happy crafting!
Nicole
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You’re math is exact! The only thing I am having issues with is placing the frill. I can’t find good placement for the bottom points. I have OCD so I think I might be over thinking it.
I’d recommend using pins to adjust the placement. What I do when figuring out exactly where to put it is to fold it in half to find the middle, and then I align that middle to the top/back of the head, pin that in place, and then it is a bit easier to pin down where the sides will sit. I hope that helps!
Hi Nicole! I’m making the strawberry version of the big triceratops for my sister for Christmas, and I’ve just gotten to the ruffle, but it’s way too small for the rest of the head! I haven’t stuffed the head yet because I’m flying home in a week, and I wanted to get the components done and ready to assemble before I left, and I don’t know what to do about the ruffle. I thought it was my yarn so I doubled it to make it thicker, but the ruffle is still too small for the rest of the head. Am i doing something wrong or is this a “trust the process” thing?
Hello! It’s hard to say without seeing a photo. You can send me a picture via email or on Instagram and I’d be happy to take a look! 🙂
I figured it out! I just kept going with the pattern and increased my hook size and it worked!
Hello, I might be wrong but Round 16 or the head doesnt make the math. How can I fix this?
Thank you
Hello,
You are to repeat for an ADDITIONAL 5 times, which makes a total of 6 times. The math is correct. Hope that helps!
My daughter loves dinosaurs, and when I saw this, I knew I had to make one. Question. I will be using 8-ply milk cotton; do I use 4.00mm as well or adjust it to a smaller one? Your reply will be very much appreciated! I am excited about this one! haha
I hope she loves it! — In terms of hook size, you can decide the hook based on your own tension. Just use a hook that is small enough that your stitches create a tight enough fabric that your stuffing will now show through. I have an article on this very thing that might help you out. I’ll link it below.
https://www.thenicolechase.com/blog/amigurumi-hook-size
Enjoy!
Hi Nicole!
Love your pattern so far. I’ve gotten to the frill and have been stumped. I’ve tried it both ways multiple times with the FSC and SC chain… and each time my stitch count is off, and I don’t end with enough chains at the end of each row/don’t end on 2 sc in one stitch. I’m really confused on what could be happening!
Hello! It sounds like you aren’t doing the entire repeat, which both starts and ends with 2 SC. So it is 2, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 1, 1, 1, 2, and so on. So there will be 2 and 2 right next to each other. I hope that helps!
This is happening to me too. The math is off. 30 stitches in round 1 and then 7 each round for round 2 don’t equate to 42. I’ve ripped this apart so many times I’m about to throw in the towel.
Hello,
I can assure you that the math is correct. You are likely not doing the full repeat. Notice that it starts with 2 and ends with 2, so when you are doing another repeat, you have 2 and 2 next to each other. This is often overlooked. It will look like this 2, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 1, 1, 1, 2, which gives you a total of 42 sts. You are creating 7 sts for each repeat, repeating a total of 6 times. 7×6=42. Hope that helps! 🙂
Hi Nicole, I am new to crocheting and I picked this Triceratops as my first project. I am almost done, one leg and the arms left to go plus trying to understand the assembly which I am nervous about.
On the legs when it says sc the legs closed leaving one stitch open on both sides, am I missing something as to what I am doing with these two open stitches?
Also you are using a yarn needle for sewing pieces together? I am praying it looks halfway decent when I am done. I have enjoyed making this.
Hello! The open stitch is just to allow room for the fold so that you can work through both sides. Otherwise it’s a bit difficult to get your hook through the edge stitches. All in all, the actual count and open stitches don’t have any impact on how things sew together, so if you would prefer to not skip those stitches on the ends for the fold, it’s not an issue.
Yes, I use a yarn needle for assembling. There are lots of tutorial photos to go along with the assembly instructions which should be helpful. 🙂
So glad you’ve enjoyed it!
Love the pattern, this is only my second stuffy (as my son calls them) that I’ve made and your tutorial was very easy to follow! I only have the arms left to attach then my son can go ham loving on him! ❤️
I’m so glad to hear that!
On the legs, for row 12 it says to do 4 sc bit i think its meant to say 2sc since its supposed to still be decreasing correct?
No; from R11 to R12, you are only decreasing by 4 sts (not 6). Your final stitch count for the R12 is 20 sts, so you will be doing the (SC2tog, 1 SC x 4) a total of 4 times around, thus decreasing by 4 sts. If you did (SC2tog, 1 SC x2), you would have to repeat for a total of 6 times around, which would decrease the round by 6 sts, and give you a final stitch count of 18.
Hope that helps!
I’m currently on R15 of the head & im getting a bit confused. When the pattern says repeat from * an additional 5 times, does that mean an extra five rows needs to be crocheted? Also, should there be 24 stitches left to complete the row to add up to 54 stitches? Thanks
Hello! No, it is just one round. You will repeat the 2 SC and 1 SC x3 an additional 5 times. So it will be 2, 1, 1, 1, 2, 1, 1, 1, 2, 1, 1, 1, 2, 1, 1, 1, 2, 1, 1, 1, 2, 1, 1, 1, and then you will do 1 SC in the remaining 24 sts. Hope that helps!
Thank you for your help 🙂
Good Morning Nicole I’m making your Strawberry Triceratop dinosaur for my granddaughter. I want to embroider the eyes because my daughter has a baby on the way do I do it after putting it together or before stuffing the head? Thank You Li
I personally embroider eyes after stuffing to make sure the placement is right. 🙂